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Thread: Plumbing a hydraulic e-brake

  1. #31
    Regular Contributor Jordanh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noisycricket View Post
    All a hydro handbrake is is a master cylinder plumbed inline with the rear brakes.

    ANY 5/8" bore master cylinder will work, as long as you can thread a brake line into the inlet.

    This basically means any clutch master cylinder, or generic single-throw master like what is used on a balance bar style braking setup.

    alright, kyle was saying in one of his posts that these have check valves in them, which led me to believe they were a special cylinder?


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  3. #32

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    Thanks noisycricket that actually simplifies it for me.

  4. #33
    Senior Dirty Member noisycricket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordanh View Post
    alright, kyle was saying in one of his posts that these have check valves in them, which led me to believe they were a special cylinder?

    No check valves. If there was a check valve, it wouldn't work.

    The hydraulic handbrake M/C is plumbed inline, not tee'd in. When it's plumbed inline, it acts like a passthrough under you grab the lever. Actually all master cylinders act like passthroughs until applied...

    Last edited by noisycricket; 06-14-2009 at 08:30 AM. Reason: made image
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  5. #34
    Regular Contributor Jordanh's Avatar
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    alright i have one question thats been bothering me with the k-sport handbrake. theres obviously a mounting point on the handle of the brake that attached to the body of the e-brake. on that handle there is a clevis pin that attachs the rod that pushs the piston of the cylinder.

    my question is, is that when you pull on the handle to apply the brake it is going to pivot on that pivot point. this is going to make the clevis pin move up, or down, depending upon how you have that positioned compared to the pivot point.

    how does k-sport compensate for this, or is the rod that pushs the piston that flexible?

  6. #35
    Senior Dirty Member noisycricket's Avatar
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    All master cylinders with a pushrod on them have a pivot on the M/C end of the pushrod, too, usually just a really simple hemispherical end on the pushrod mating with a countersunk section, maybe with a snapring/groove arrangement to keep the pushrod from falling out but not always.

    Most clutch master cylinders for example just have the pushrod going into a maybe 1" deep hole, so even if things separate, the rod can't fall out.

    The Wilwood M/C I used for my hydro handbrake has a clipped-in style pushrod, probably because it was designed to be one of the masters on a dual master cylinder braking setup and when brakes are concerned, there is much paranoia about things coming apart.
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  7. #36
    Regular Contributor Jordanh's Avatar
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    this pivot point your talking about would be under the rubber boot of the master cylinder?


    this is the one im looking at. you can almost see in the pic that it is sagging a bit, maybe thats just me.

    http://cncbrakes.com/mc.asp?grp=mc&s...=711&subseries=


    also, i was thinking about using this to replace the stock e-brake.. is it a bad idea to use the hydraulic e-brake for the same function as the stock e-brake. for example, lock it when you park on a hill? i've heard its not good to keep pressure on hydro brakes for a long period of time?


    i appreciate all the help!!
    Last edited by Jordanh; 06-15-2009 at 06:18 PM.

  8. #37
    Senior Dirty Member noisycricket's Avatar
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    I don't think it would be wise to trust it long-term.

    Plus the reason why the handbrake uses a cable, is because in the event of a total hydraulic failure (not impossible) you can still have an alternate form of slowing the car down. That's why it's also called the EMERGENCY brake.

    We like to joke at work, the parking brake has a cable, the emergency brake is the one next to the throttle pedal... But you get the point.

    BTW - 5/8" (.625", 16mm) bore! I have a .700 and shoulda went to .625 like damned near everybody said to. Oh well, it was really cheap. And it *will* lock the rear wheels as long as I'm braking hard to begin with, so it's still functional.
    Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.
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    - bentmettle

  9. #38
    Regular Contributor Jordanh's Avatar
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    thank you! i'll remember the .625" bore. i would think the bigger bore would be better... i dont really understand the concept to that. (i'm no hydraulics genius, thats for sure.

  10. #39
    Regular Contributor Jordanh's Avatar
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    well i got a few minutes of spare time on the cnc today at work and got this cut out. i still have to bore the hole for the bearing, but dont have it yet. i ordered a 7/8" bearing, but is probably somewhere in the .8740-.8760" range. i felt it was best to wait until the bearing arrived before cutting the bore beings i want to press fit the bearing in..


    i also have a handle drawn up for it, so hopefully i'll find some time in the next 2 weeks.


    Last edited by Jordanh; 06-17-2009 at 01:35 PM.

  11. #40

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    Colin, You ever get it working? I'm about to start installing mine but don't know where to start. I' figured since it's an 02 i can disable abs and still use the auxillary pump. can you break down exactly what you did and what fittings, etc. I'll need.

  12. #41

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    I just finished my hydraulic handbrake and heres how it went.

    I broke the rear lines on the passenger side.
    rerouted them to the center console.
    I used a Ksport handbrake.
    there was an issue with fittings. I ended up using literally the brake lines for a gm truck. they had the right fittings attached and had about 6 inches of rubber line with a 3/16 line fittings on the other side.
    I placed the handbrake inside the center console beside the parking brake.
    the handbrake works great. Next I'm going to make a bracket for the lever so I can move it up to the steering wheel. The piston is threaded so i'll just attach to it and run to the lever. As long as theres no deflection in the attached peice, when I pull the brake, it'll work great and be minimal which is what I like to keep the car about.

  13. #42

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    Can you post pics of your setup please? More specifically the fittings and lines.

    ~Mark | ::MAP Rally Team | www.MAP-Rally.com

  14. #43

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    I'll try to remember to, I just finished pouring mauratic acid all over the garage! Trying to get rid of the tranny fluid stains.

  15. #44

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    hey I know this is an old post but I am also trying to hook up my ksport ebrake. where did you get the fittings and what are they used for? I couldnt find any to fit into the master cylinder. You said a GM truck? Any help would be appreciated! thanks!


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