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Thread: Motor Re-build

  1. #1

    Default Motor Re-build

    I plan on rebuild my 2004 Subaru WRX motor (126K). Not looking to do something crazy I just think my motor is not feeling too well. Right now I'm using it as a daily driver and I'm putting about 150 miles on it... a day. With my tax return I want to rebuild the motor. Below is a list of components that I know Ill need but just looking for advice and ideas of what else I need.

    -Brian Crower Connecting Rods
    -Cosworth Rod Bearing Set
    -Cosworth Piston Ring Set
    -Cosworth Forged Pistons Set
    -Brian Crower Stage 2 272 Cam Shafts
    -Complete Seal Kit
    -Cosworth Main Bearing Set
    -Brian Crower Intake Valves
    -Brian Crower Exhaust Valves
    -Tomei Spring Set
    -Cobb Lightweight Crank Pully
    -Gates Crankshaft Seal

    All parts listed are from www.RallySportDirect.com

    Like I said I don't plan on going crazy with the build but I figured a few upgraded internals will give me room for more power later on before having to break into the motor again.

    I appreciate any advice and I don't know anything about motors so keep that in mind when telling me how wrong I am.
    Shamelessly Aggressive


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  3. #2
    Dirty Member ZED E85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyD303 View Post

    Like I said I don't plan on going crazy with the build
    If mostly cosworth internals isn't going crazy, I'd hate to see what you'd consider crazy.

    Unless you plan on putting a turbo the size of the moon in there you probably don't need most of that.

    Things you'll definitely need for a basic rebuild that will last another 100,000+:
    Complete seal kit
    Piston rings
    main and rod bearings
    Water pump
    Oil Pump
    A machinist (to hone cylinder walls, grind valve seats, check bearing journals, etc.)

    Other than the above I wouldn't change anything that isn't showing signs of wear or is broken.

    Please ignore the link on water pump, I didn't put it there, the site did

  4. #3

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    I just want to make sure I have room for upgrades later on. Pretty soon I want this car to be just for the weekends and what not. I also never plan on selling this car so the longer it last the better.

    What I meant by not going crazy is by bore and stroking the motor and have a full roll cage in the car and complete drive train upgrade all at once. I want this car to be fast but with the reliability of a normal Subaru.
    Shamelessly Aggressive

  5. #4

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    are you going to do the rebuild yourself or have a shop do it?
    Quality remanufactured, rebuilt, and used subaru engines and other parts: http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com/

  6. #5

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    Yes, I will have a shop build it for me, not sure which shop yet. I live near flint,mi so if anyone knows a good place near me let me know.
    Shamelessly Aggressive

  7. #6

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    I'm not a fan of Brian Crower. Crower is still good imo, but BC isn't what crower used to be. I'm looking at a few sites right now and see your options are limited for cams, so thats a bummer, but I do have to ask, why getting cams? It is going to shift your curve way to the right on a little TD04 and it might make it not seem as fun to drive. I'd think with all this stuff you have listed you should upgrade to cheap 5-600 dollar stock location turbo to utilize it.

    I would really look for some different rods too, some manley H beams or something else.
    Manley valves are just a few dollars more, and I trust them more too Just my .02 on BC.


    -Brian Crower Intake Valves
    -Brian Crower Exhaust Valves
    -Brian Crower Stage 2 272 Cam Shafts
    -Brian Crower Connecting Rods


    Cosworth is great, dont get me wrong, but all the bearings are is ACL Race bearings that are sized so that they all match. ( buy 100 sets and make sets that are all the same clearances from what I understand)
    What compression you thinking of running?

    I'm sure the pistons are going to be brilliant, but $$$. I got ceramic coated CPs for my build and they were only 675 after coating.


    -Cosworth Main Bearing Set
    -Cosworth Rod Bearing Set
    -Cosworth Piston Ring Set
    -Cosworth Forged Pistons Set

    Definitely!!
    -Complete Seal Kit

    Haven't heard anything about these springs, but consider getting the whiteline ball joints for lowered cars while you're at it.
    -Tomei Spring Set

    Haven't heard anything about cobb, but I think that they are all pretty similar. I haven't made up my mind on mine yet... which I should probably order here soon (leaning towards grimmspeed)
    -Cobb Lightweight Crank Pulley

    Don't these come with gasket kit? (If not i'm going to be mad! My heads go on tomorrow lol **checked http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?t=996220** and they are in there for others reference)
    -Gates Crankshaft Seal

    Now having said all that, You're close enough to chicago, I think you'd be wise to use someone from that region. P&L, AMS, I think AMR is there too.

    Have you thought about deleting your TGVs?
    Who is going to be doing the tuning?
    Cobb AP or Open source?
    Going to do any fuel upgrades? Might as well throw in some injectors and or a walbro 255 while you have the motor out.
    Timing belt kit?
    Clutch / pressure plate?
    ARP Head Studs i think would be a must.

    Thats all I can think of for now. Text me if you need any more help my man...

  8. #7
    Dirty Member ZED E85's Avatar
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    I forgot the timing belt kit. Make sure you get the one with the pulleys and tensioner.

    If you have the budget to do all of the things you listed, plus pay someone to rebuild it for you and you plan on going for buig power later on then go for it. You may want to wait to order stuff until you talk to the shop thats doing it. They may be able to get you parts cheaper if you buy everything from them and have them put it together.

    Also, I recommend you do some reading on how cams effect your powerband before you decide to change them. The one you have picked will move your entire powerband to the right, cutting low end torque and giving you more horsepower up at the top of the rev range. I not 100% sure about this, but it will probably hurt you overall if you plan on doing rally and have to put a restrictor in the turbo. The cams will cut your low end power and the restrictor will nueter the car at the high end, leaving you with a net loss of power on both ends over the stock cam. If you can find some short duration high lift cams (I've seen them, but I can't remeber who makes them right now) that would be worth putting in.

    Edit: Kelford makes a wide variety of cams
    Last edited by ZED E85; 04-09-2012 at 02:46 PM.

  9. #8

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    Hmmm ... bites tongue ...

    Yeah i guess listen to what Zed says

  10. #9
    Dirty Member ZED E85's Avatar
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    Sorry if it seems like I stepped on your toes


    What this really comes down to is what you want out of the car. If you're going to be drag racing or track days at big tracks the longer duration cams and a big turbo might be the way to go. But if you're going to be doing mostly autocross, rallycross, and rally then low end torque is king, and you'll want a VF34 or smaller turbo and some shorter duration cams, maybe even raise the compression slightly during the rebuild.
    Last edited by ZED E85; 04-11-2012 at 08:35 AM.

  11. #10

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    Any update Danny?

  12. #11

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    not sure if you already have the guys replacing seals, but i would highly recommend having the o ring that goes between the block and the oil cooler/oil filter housing replaced. seems like a lot of leaks develop there and would be a whole lot easier to do it while the engine is out of the car. also replace the little hose elbows going to the oil cooler as well.

    depending on what your plans were, i would say to replace the engine mounts while the engine is out too. some group n's would be a nice addition and way easier to install when the engine is not in the car.

  13. #12

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    Good call on motor mounts. Definitely worth while.


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