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Thread: SHELL ROTELLA T6 5w-40

  1. #1

    Default SHELL ROTELLA T6 5w-40

    hey guys been looking @uoa's from other owners that used the T6 in there vehicle and looks like there uoa looks awesome anyone else use this stuff?, ive been using AMSOIL XL 5w-30 for two oil intervals now since i got the car in march this year and its just swallows 5w30 like soda pop mann---v

    well heres what i have now just sitting waiting for my next change in about a week, going to get a uoa on the amsoil stuff i have in right now when i drain out and post it up later then after my next interval we'll see what the rotella will show up on my annalayisis here's a link for there specs http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t6_detail.html



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  3. #2

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    I use Rotella in my bike.

    I have contemplated using it in my car.

    If you want lots of oil info... go to bobistheoilguy.com

  4. #3
    DirtyImpreza Badass MConte05's Avatar
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    Rotella FTW. Excellent break-down resistance and damn cheap. Exactly what is needed in a Subaru.

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    Radio Ops Moderator williaty's Avatar
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    The problem is that it's a 40 weight. That's going to cut flow, reduce cooling, and increase pressure. None of that is good.

    Shell also refuses to disclose the HTHS viscosity, which is the single most important spec about an oil for internal combustion engine use.


    Also, you can tell absolutely nothing about wither an oil is protecting the engine from a UOA. Everyone think that you can. Everyone is wrong.

  6. #5

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    Ty, what are you running in your cars?

  7. #6
    Radio Ops Moderator williaty's Avatar
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    When I was leaking oil like a sieve, I couldn't afford to run anything other than yellow-bottle Penzoil. Now that both of ours hold oil, I run Redline 5w20 in my car because the oil pressure was higher than I wanted on 30 weight. Hell, the oil pressure in mine is higher than I want it to be even on a 20 weight. I'd drop down to a 10 weight but the HTHS gets lower than I'm comfortable with at that point. We run Redline 5w30 in her car because we don't have an oil pressure gauge in it so we can't prove that we need to run a thinner oil even though I suspect we do.

    You want the oil with the highest HTHS you can find that still gets you about 10psi per thousand RPM in your engine. A true never-was-alive-type synthetic is generally going to win on those qualifications.

  8. #7

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    I have used rotella the last two or three oil changes..My engine deffinantly stays quieter a lot longer so I can tell it's not breaking down as fast as past oils I have tried..I will probably continue to use it..

  9. #8
    Radio Ops Moderator williaty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshz400_03 View Post
    I have used rotella the last two or three oil changes..My engine deffinantly stays quieter a lot longer so I can tell it's not breaking down as fast as past oils I have tried..I will probably continue to use it..
    That actually is not a reasonable conclusion.

    Viscosity breakdown alone is not a major factor in how the engine sounds. Unless you're getting UOAs to back up to the fact that the oil is thinning out, it's more likely that something in the additive package is cooking off.

    Don't get me wrong, the Rotella line is good oil for its intended use but for the Subaru engines, a 40 weight isn't necessarily a good choice.

  10. #9

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    I am going to use rotella and see how it does, ive seen info on rotella and good talk about it, so...i am going to use it anyway bc to me imo, (iknowsomeonesgoingtosaybackupmyinfo),...but its cool, motor oil-is-motor oil they all do the same job its better than not having anything at all.

  11. #10

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    I run it in my WRX and it passes oil tests by blackstone wonderfully every time.

  12. #11
    Regular Contributor cantpee's Avatar
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    I run that same oil in both my motorcycle and my WRX. No problems in either, thus far.

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    Forum Moderator Rally OBXT's Avatar
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    Here's the way I see it: If williaty does not like it, it must be good!

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    Regular Contributor cantpee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by williaty View Post
    Don't get me wrong, the Rotella line is good oil for its intended use but for the Subaru engines, a 40 weight isn't necessarily a good choice.
    Would a reasonable solution would be to switch to a lighter weight oil for the winter?

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    Radio Ops Moderator williaty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rally OBXT View Post
    Here's the way I see it: If williaty does not like it, it must be good!
    You know, you wouldn't be the first one to feel that way

    A lot of them have ended up dead in a ditch, though. I leave it as an exercise to the reader to figure out why.

    Quote Originally Posted by cantpee View Post
    Would a reasonable solution would be to switch to a lighter weight oil for the winter?
    No.

    In a mult-grade oil, the second number, in this case 40, is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature. Since operating temperature doesn't change from summer to winter, the viscosity requirement doesn't change either.



    A lot of people think that 30 weight oils are "too thin" for our cars because they're "hard on oil" or "I really beat on it" or any of a huge range of reasons why they need to run a 40/50/60 weight in their car. That's horse****. The problem is that up until recently, oils were only classified by their kinematic viscosity (weight). Someone noticed that high-stress motors sometimes blew up a little less often on heavier oils, so suddenly "everyone knew" that heavier oils protect better. Turns out, that's wrong, or at least not that simple. The test for kinematic viscosity (weight) doesn't even remotely resemble what happens in your bearings. Someone eventually thought it might be a good idea to have a test that actually DID test what was going on in bearings, so they developed the HT/HS Viscosity test. The HT/HS viscosity and the kinematic viscosity aren't directly related. You can't take one of them and figure out the other one of them. They do, in general, trend in the same direction. In other words, if you go to a heavier weight, you probably also got a higher HTHS. No promises though. In laboratory testing, it's turned out that engine wear and kinematic viscosity (weight/grade) have almost nothing to do with each other. Heavier oils don't result in less wear, lighter oils don't result in more wear. What they did find was that HTHS is HUGELY related to engine wear. Low HTHS does produce high wear and high HTHS does produce low wear. So when people started putting heavier oils into built engines and getting better results, they'd actually just gotten lucky and picked an oil with a higher HTHS.

    Pennzoil yellow bottle 10w40 has an HTHS of 3.7.
    Redline 5w30 has a HTHS of 3.8.

    So the 30 weight from Redline will beat the 40 weight in a drag race. Turns out, it's also faster in the corners because it's a lighter oil. Total win.

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    Quote Originally Posted by williaty View Post
    When I was leaking oil like a sieve, I couldn't afford to run anything other than yellow-bottle Penzoil. Now that both of ours hold oil, I run Redline 5w20 in my car because the oil pressure was higher than I wanted on 30 weight. Hell, the oil pressure in mine is higher than I want it to be even on a 20 weight. I'd drop down to a 10 weight but the HTHS gets lower than I'm comfortable with at that point. We run Redline 5w30 in her car because we don't have an oil pressure gauge in it so we can't prove that we need to run a thinner oil even though I suspect we do.

    You want the oil with the highest HTHS you can find that still gets you about 10psi per thousand RPM in your engine. A true never-was-alive-type synthetic is generally going to win on those qualifications.
    I'm interested in this since I finally got an oil pressure gauge in the rally car. Per my engine builders instructions, i'm running a dino 20w-50 oil for break-in, and then I'll be switching back over to Redline after 1000 miles.

    I have .002" bearing clearances, which is more than stock, but typical for a 'built/race' engine. Pressure is also a matter of area, so in order to get proper 'protection' for the extra clearance, what kind of pressure's should I be looking at (both at idle and at speed)?

    right now, fully hot, at idle its around 25psi....a 3rd gear pull is around 60psi (give or take). I realize 'too high' means there's a blockage somewhere, but I would think I'd rather be on the high side than the low side for a race car, yes? (i've been meaning to ask this on NASIOC but didn't want to deal with all the usual BS.)


    and where do you find this HT/HS data? I'll be running some viscosity of Redline's race oils:
    http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=15&pcid=1


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