So after reading around on Blackhole Motorsports, I finally gave tuning the default setup a try. Mostly because I was getting so frustrated with the setup on tarmac, as it is so incredibly twitching and unstable at high speeds. I tried out these settings and holy hell does it make a difference. I am now actually enjoying the France stages verses before, I dreaded them.
MConte05 Ultimate TARMAC Setup:
Brake Bias: 70 (Front), 30 (Rear)
Tire Pressure: 220 (Front), 210 (Rear)
Spring Stiffness: 80 (Front),Soften the rear just a bit
Anti-Roll Bar: +1.0 (Front), -2.0 (Rear)
Here's what makes the biggest difference by far when it comes to high-speed stability:
Set the Diff Torque to the following:
Then set the diff lockup to be 100% at 120kph, and the setting under that (100kph?) to be 80%, so it should be nice and linear progression going up.
Lemme know what you guys think. I saw a HUGE change in my times. When before I struggled to barely beat the games default fastest times, or else lagged behind by nearly 5-6 seconds, now I am setting fastest times around 15-20 seconds faster on some stages.
DIFFERENTIALS Use the Differentials to change the minimum and maximum settings of your differentials.
Definition A differential in your car has three jobs: 1. It transmits the engines power to the wheels. 2. It allows the wheels at each end of an axle to rotate at different speeds. 3. It acts as the final gear reduction in the car, slowing the rotational speed of the transmission one last time before the power reaches the wheels.
All the differentials on your car have a range from 0% friction (i.e. free turning) to 100% friction (i.e. locked). The term LOCK refers to the degree (as a percentage) that the differential locks up under the three inputs of throttle, brake and speed. A locked differential means both wheels on the axle rotate at exactly the same speed.
DIFFERENTIAL MAPS The differential maps let you adjust the gradual progression from 0-100% differential lock pressure in relation to the various inputs (throttle, brake and overall speed). This controls the way all three differentials of the car (front, centre and rear), operate.
Note: The ECU (Engine Control Unit) always looks for the highest locking figure of the throttle, brake or speed maps and uses those settings.
Centre Differential: This map is used in conventional or straight line driving. ACTION - EFFECT ON BALANCE - OTHER EFFECTS Decrease percentage - More oversteer - Less stable under braking Increase percentage - More understeer - More stable under braking (more locked)
Centre L. Foot: IMPORTANT: ADVANCED DRIVERS The car's ECU overrides the Centre Differential map if you use both brake and throttle simultaneously. This technique is commonly known as left foot braking. ACTION - EFFECT ON BALANCE - OTHER EFFECTS Decrease percentage - More oversteer - Less stable under braking Increase percentage - More understeer - More stable under braking Tip: Centre L Foot differential settings should be lower than those of the centre differential, as this helps you to turn the car into a bend.
Front Differential: ACTION - POSITIVE EFFECT - NEGATIVE EFFECTS Decrease percentage - Easier to turn car into bend - Less traction on exit from bend Increase percentage - More traction on exit - More difficult to turn car into (more locked) from bend and torque steer on exit Tip: Less percentage of front differential lock on tarmac than gravel stages.
Rear Differential: ACTION - POSITIVE EFFECT - NEGATIVE EFFECTS Decrease percentage - Very slight increase in high speed stability - Loss of traction Increase percentage - More traction - Understeer in tight bends Tip: As a general rule, you should keep these values fairly high. For example, if 50% of throttle input (i.e. how hard you push the throttle control) is set to 25% LOCK and the differential torque is 600Nm the actual differential torque in this state would be 150Nm.
DIFFERENTIAL TORQUE This is the maximum locking pressure of the differential and is measured in Newton Meters (Nm). Note: These values are optimized for each of the vehicles and stages in the game. If you consider figures to be maximums, you might want to adjust settings within the Differential Maps.
Max. Centre Diff. Torque: ACTION PRIMARY EFFECT OTHER EFFECTS Decrease percentage - More input-sensitive handling - Increased chance of oversteer Increase percentage - More stable - Increased chance of understeer
Max. Front Diff. Torque: ACTION - PRIMARY EFFECT - OTHER EFFECTS Decrease percentage - Less front-wheel traction - Exiting tight corners easier Increase percentage - More front-wheel traction - More difficult to accurately control steering
Max. Rear Diff. Torque: ACTION - PRIMARY EFFECT - OTHER EFFECTS Decrease percentage - Less traction - Helps prevent understeer Increase percentage - Increase traction through rear wheels on exit from a bend - May cause some understeer
Handbrake Release: Note: As well as activating the carís rear brakes in unison, the handbrake also releases the transmissions drive to the rear wheels by opening the centre differential. The percentage value relates to the amount of pressure needed on the controller input to release the centre differential, helping you to perform a perfect handbrake turn.
Foot Brake Threshold: The percentage value relates to the amount of pressure needed on the controller input to make the Center Left-Foot differential map override the centre diff map when throttle is applied. Tip: Use a controller configuration that allows you to press both throttle and brake controls at the same time as changing gear.
SUSPENSION This set of menus allows you to change the cars handling setup. For both rough and smooth surfaces, dampers and springs can be adjusted to good effect. Tight and twisty stages may require tweaks to your cars geometry and anti-roll bars.
Note: Any changes in values made to the suspension must be equal with the cars opposite side. For example, a change made to the Left Front Rebound setup should be duplicated in the Right Front Rebound.
Dampers The damper dissipates (or damps) the energy of the wheel when it hits a bump. It also controls the rate of the wheels return towards the road, which would otherwise be influenced by the springs rebound alone. Note: All figures are measured in Kilo Newtonís per meter per second. (kN/m/s).
Bump: This is the energy absorbed within the damper while hitting a bump or ridge in the road. Increasing this value makes the car feel more rigid. Decreasing this value will make the car feel softer. Tip: If you set the bump value too high, the car will have a tendency to bounce off the road. Set it too low and it will not do its job of absorbing the bumps energy.
Rebound: Rebound setting controls the speed with which the damper extends after compression, which returns the tire to the road. Tip: The lower the setting, the more traction your car will find. Too soft, and the vehicle will tend to pogo.
Fast Bump: Fast Bump works in the same way as the Bump settings, and is to combat the bigger ruts, potholes or jumps you might encounter on a stage. Fast Bump does not relate to the speed of the car, it describes the speed of the damper compressing as a result of a large impact.
F Bump Threshold: The Fast Bump Threshold is the speed (measured in meters per second) that allows your fast bump settings to override your bump settings. Tip: A high setting may mean that the Fast Bump Threshold is never reached. Too low and youíll always be above the threshold.
Springs There are two types of spring on the suspension, one is the main spring and the other is the helper spring. The main spring does the majority of the work under loaded situations. The helper spring comes into play when the wheel is on light load to provide extra traction or, when itís unloaded, to ensure full extension of the damper. Spring Length: Adjusting this value alters the carís ride height and length of suspension travel. Tip: There are easier ways to change the ride height. Adjust strut platform height within the Geometry menu. For the purposes of car setup we recommend leaving the spring length on default.
Spring Stiffness: This is the amount of effort it takes to compress the spring. Therefore the higher the number the stiffer the spring becomes. The lower the number, the softer the spring. This will obviously affect the carís handling when going over bumps. Tip: Fast, high-speed stages will benefit from higher spring stiffness. For muddy or snowy conditions a softer (lower) spring setting may be advantageous. Note: The helper spring length and stiffness has been optimized for each vehicle, so we recommend that you leave them at their default settings.
GEOMETRY (Front and Rear) The Geometry menus allow you to change the wheel alignment of the car and its ride height. These descriptions relate to the Front and Rear of the car.
Top Mount Position: The top mount position is the mount at the top of the strut (where it is connected to the car). Move this back and forth to change the caster. Tip: The bigger the minus caster figure you use, the better the car makes its initial turn-in. However, this can increase the bump steer (i.e. the carís propensity to be diverted by bumps).
Front Roll Bar Stiffness: This affects the speed that the carís weight moves across the axle between the two front wheels. The higher the figure, the stiffer the roll bar and the slower the change of weight distribution. Tip: A lower setting gives quicker initial turn in on entry to bends. Higher settings give the car greater high-speed stability.
Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: This affects the speed that the carís weight moves across the axle between the two rear wheels. The higher the figure, the stiffer the roll bar and the slower the change of weight distribution Tip: Lower settings (softer) result in added traction, but can provoke understeer. If conditions are wet, perhaps lower (softer ) settings for both front and rear roll bars.
TIRES As the Pirelli tyre is worked through braking, acceleration and cornering, the tyre pressure increases as the air inside heats up and expands. Pressure referred to in the menus is a cold tyre pressure. Tip: On long, hot stages, you may find running a slightly lower pressure will be beneficial.
BRAKES This section enables you to change the balance between the front and rear of the car, and the overall maximum breaking pressure.
Max Brake Pressure: This is the maximum breaking pressure on the wheels. Increasing this pressure too much causes the wheels to lock and the car to skid. On a loose, wet or icy surface, youíll need less power to initiate wheel lock. Tip: If you are happy with the balance of your car, keep the brake power distribution ratio consistent between Front and Rear Brakes. If the rear brake bias is too high the rear of the car may tend to step out. If the front bias is too high, the car may tend to lock up and itíll be difficult to get the back of the car to break away on corners.
Brake Bias: This is a percentage of the total breaking power being applied to the respective set of wheels. The total always equals 1.
Brake Diameter: This indicates the size of the brake disc.
GEAR This section enables you to change the drop gear within the gearbox to enable a higher top speed/lower acceleration, or lower top speed/faster acceleration. Making this choice will all depend on how fast or tight and twisty the stage may be.
Gear Guard: Use Gear Guard to protect the gearbox from down-changes where you would otherwise damage your engine.
Drop Gear The drop gear drops the overall ratios of your car so that it is better suited to a particular style of stage.
Long: Maximum top speed, slowest acceleration. Medium: Medium top speed, medium acceleration. Short: Slowest top speed, maximum acceleration.
Tip: If you are on the rev limiter for a long period of time, you might need to extend your gear ratios. Select MEDIUM or LONG. If you arenít achieving maximum revs in top gear, perhaps use shorter ratios.
I know what you mean about the tarmac settings, i would be so tense and frightened going flat our through buildings because with any slight bump or incorrect steering input the car would be in someones barn door lol. Now if only i could find my damn RBR CD so I could play
If you did a full install you shouldn't need the CD any more. The last patch (1.21 I think?) curiously eliminated the CD check, I think because the devs knew they were gonna get sold to frigging Gizmondo soon thereafter.
Here's something interesting and kind of shocking - Eero Piitulainen, the brains behind RBR's physics, did the tyre model for the upcoming NFS:Shift.
'03 Evo VIII : '90 Corrado G60 : '05 Legacy GT wagon : '11 Fiesta hatch : '77 Capri 2.8