SkidPlate? BD BG BK ?

[BlackParis]

anyone know of a company that makes a good solid one for rally/rally-x ?


I was just going to buy sheet of aluminum, but that costs almost as much as buying a whole plate, thats pre-cut/bent...

I guess if no-one makes one I'll have to buy a sheet of aluminum....

[Draco-REX]

Primitive Racing should.

http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/skidplate/skid_legacy.htm

If you order one, remember that there's an oil drain hole standard. You have to request that it be removed if you want a solid plate. Also, their rear diff protector sets up a very loud resonnance at highway speeds. You'll want some sound deadening to put into the bottom of it (Raam Mt, Dynamat, etc.).

[BlackParis]

Also, their rear diff protector sets up a very loud resonnance at highway speeds. You'll want some sound deadening to put into the bottom of it (Raam Mt, Dynamat, etc.).

I lOVE resonance! :-D why would I want to stop it? :jack:

[pigpen]

+1 for primitive. that's what's on my legacy, since i didn't like all the holes in the SSI one, and they were the only two i found. but i have 3/16" front and rear with no drain hole. never had the rear diff noise issue, but that kind of thing doesn't usually bother me much. i have scraped over a lot of things with my plates so far, and nothing but minor surface gashes. nothing deep, and no creases or dings.

[donutking]

id say primitive also. unless you can find some scrap metal at a junkyard.

[newbie101]

+1 on scrap...thats what this was made out of

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/volcom5655/P1010044.jpg

[Allwheelsdriven.net]

We build custom skid plates for all types of Subaru and non Subies too.

Usually built from 3/16" 6061 Aluminum. The N/A plates (RS, Leggy, OB, Forester, OBS) come with a subframe for extra strength. Our WRX/STi plates are also 3/16" 6061, but utilize the stock subframe and mounting holes for attachment. These are all stage proven with excellent results.

We've seen everything used from the "Mailman" (subaru factory) skidplates, to street signs (a buddy used one), to other brands in rally x, and on stage. Our plate designs are the most effective out of what's available, but also a bit more $. If you launch your car and land hard, or hit something in the right part (middle)of many skid plates, they will rip off the car, or get majorly deformed (think taco shell).

Most of what is out there is built for minimal coverage, and ease of installation. When you whack a rock going 60mph in the center of the plate under full compression, you find the strength limit quickly. :)

Please feel free to post, pm or email with any questions that you might have.

Rally On!
Barrett-
www.allwheelsdriven.net (http://www.allwheelsdriven.net)

[StanBo]

Thanks for the information Barrett. Without (trade secret I would guess) getting into details could you tell us what differences there could be between yours and PR's Design?

I have the PR front and rear on my sedan and didn't notice any sound from the diff cover.

The front is pretty simple and looks a lot like newbie101's.

I would like the information myself. Could it do something with ribbon strips to help fight bowing?

[Allwheelsdriven.net]

Thanks for the information Barrett. Without (trade secret I would guess) getting into details could you tell us what differences there could be between yours and PR's Design?

I have the PR front and rear on my sedan and didn't notice any sound from the diff cover.

The front is pretty simple and looks a lot like newbie101's.

I would like the information myself. Could it do something with ribbon strips to help fight bowing?

The material is similar and that's about it. We shape and bend our plates differently in front and rear part of the plate, so if you leave the road you can reverse without getting stuck on your plate. Also, due to the subframe on the NA versions, there is no need for spacers to get the desired exhaust clearance. The thin strips help, but a subframe spreads the load better.

As far as the rear diff guard goes, we have one under development that will be easier to mount. Also, you'll be able to leave the diff cover on the car if you need to change out a driveline. On the OEM and PR diff guards (nearly identical), they are designed in a way that prevents you from doing that. In a rally service (overnight trans swap) situation, spending 45mins-1 hr (off/on) dealing with a diff guard is a huge waste of precious time. Not many properly fitting diff guards will make noise on your car. Think the OP was referring to the skidplate rattling, as that's usually the culprit.

Rally On!
Barrett-
www.allwheelsdriven.net

[WayBack]

Just posted my saga here:
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?p=62400#post62400
It's a bit heavy, but it will never be defeated. :)

I'll also be developing a diff cover, among other things... unless I dont have to. Baret, any pictures of what you guys are working on?

[WayBack]

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/3168/plateeg8.jpg

[Subie Gal]

i ran a Primitive www.get-primitive.com Plate on my BD
and it worked great for rally x

easy on. easy off. great coverage and fit :)

Jamie http://www.subiegal.com/subiegal-smilie.png (http://www.subiegal.com/)