Lifted My 98 Legacy

[i5racer]

I get a lot of questions about my suspension lift so I wanted to post my build.

King Springs KSFR-26 KSRR-25 http://www.kingsprings.com/
KYB GR-2 RF-235632 LF-235633 RR-335020 LR-335021
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630105_large.jpg

First: the Outback struts

I started with just the struts for Outback and SUS and that gave me about 1.5" of lift. It was nice but I fully intended to get taller springs eventually. The saggy butt is from all the stereo in the trunk, I think it would be level otherwise.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630090_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630088_large.jpg

Then: King springs

It took me a while to find the right springs and I am really happy with King Springs. They may cost a lot to ship but I couldn't find anything like them in the USA. They are the perfect amount of stiffness and I got a few inches more lift.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630098_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630096_large.jpg

Optional: tie-rod ends

The springs fixed my saggy butt, I guess they're stiff enough to support some bass. Outback tie-rod endlinks I found have a slight curve compared to the GT and L models and they give the steering a more controlled feel that was lost when going to Outback struts. I have seen Outbacks with the straight ends also so I'm not really sure if these are necessary.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630185_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630150_large.jpg

The ratio is slower on the Outback steering rack but the endlinks corrected some of the bad geometry.

[haji]

What's the ride like compared to stock?
Does it feel stiffer? Mushier?

Good job!

[beatersubi]

Do you know what the rate of the springs are? And did you do anything with the swaybars?
Alloy control arms?

[i5racer]

Definately a lot stiffer but the GR-2 struts alone made a huge difference there.

Don't know the rate on the springs, they're streetable but driving Seattle streets is kinda like driving off-road.

Alloy endlinks replaced my craptastic stock plastic "endlinks" and the aluminum control arms I picked up after folding a stock one in half.

Fourth: Rear stabilizer bar and mounts

The Outback rear sway bar is 18mm so I picked that up also. The mounts are taller on Outback and SUS but unfortunately they aren't any stronger.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630181_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630189_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630188_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630190_large.jpg

Don't Forget: Exhaust shield bolts

I haven't seen these mentioned before, I don't know if they are a big deal but I got them so there wouldn't be any issues.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630187_large.jpg

To complete the lift I'm getting a set of trailing arm mounts from an Outback to correct the massive rear caster and center the rear wheels. The Outback crossmember spacers are also on the list to reduce stress on the drivetrain.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630180_large.jpg

[i5racer]

Now the problem I'm most concerned about: centering the rear wheel. You can see in these pics that it is causing the angles of the lateral links to be off also.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630192_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630191_large.jpg

Sixth: Trailing arm brackets

The Outback bracket is a little taller and reduces the insane caster from lifting the struts. I lost the side by side pics but here's the installed Outback bracket. There's about 1-1/2" between the end of the arm and the bracket mount now.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630196_large.jpg

Seventh: Rear subframe spacers

To complete the rear lift and take some stress off the driveline, the subframe is spaced off the frame about an inch. Get the bolts with the spacers for the entire car as the originals will be too short.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630193_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630194_large.jpg

Eighth: Differential subframe spacers and brackets

The rear subframe is also spaced at the forward end right behind the trailing arm brackets. I did both at the same time and it was a little easier to get at the bolts that way. Taking off a stubborn bolt and breaking the welded nut off inside the frame sucks. (See second pic below)
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630182_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630195_large.jpg

Now the rear wheel should be almost centered in the wheel well.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630197_large.jpg

Ninth: Front subframe spacers

Just like the rear, it's a good idea to do one side at a time and take out the steering column knuckle before doing the driver's side.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630186_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630198_large.jpg

Tenth: Transmission crossmember

I thought they were just spacers, they are but they're welded to the crossmember so just get the whole thing and the bolts.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630184_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4261/22724630199_large.jpg

[i5racer]

Tenth: Continued from above

The rearward piece is also differently shaped, flatter to hang the transmission lower in the rear also. The center joining piece actually remains common to both models.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842082_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842066_large.jpg

Eleventh: Steering knuckle

After spacing the front crossmember the larger gap between the column and the rack will be too big for your old knuckle. I found it easiest to remove the two bolts under the ignition key and have a friend hold the wheel while I lined up the splines then just push it back in and bolt it back up.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842173_large.jpg

12th: Control arm mounts

Even though I had the Whiteline PSRS, lowering the front crossmember was too much for them to handle. They are lower than GT stock but nothing like the Outback mounts. If you want a cheap PSRS see how the Outback mounts fit and report back to me.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842143_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842157_large.jpg

13th: Exhaust shield bracket

The rear of the muffler shield mounts to the subframe so the fracket in front has to be angled more and a little bit longer. I tried to reshape the original but it wouldn't work and without the Outback bracket it would rub on the crossmember.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842098_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842113_large.jpg

Next time I will adress these issues; 3 out of 4 exhaust hangers are too high and need brackets from the Outback to lower them. I used some copper wire to rig it for now and rely heavily on the one mounted to the subframe.

The F/R axle bushing is too high and needs to be spaced out or replaced with the Outback part. I put a few washers on longer bolts just until it was clear of the differential crossmember.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4602/4685/24004842127_large.jpg

[dirtslayer]

^^^^^^^that is BA for sure.. props to the amount of work and head scratching done for everyone. thats legit

[beatersubi]

In which PAP did you find a Outback?! The one in Tacoma never has anything that new.

[i5racer]

In Lynnwood, everyone I've talked to that has been to the Tacoma yard says it sucks. I made so many trips up to the yard, sometimes more than twice in a day and nobody had touched my donor car. Can't beat Pull-
a-Part prices either. I hope this guide saves some people the extra trips that I made to get all these pieces

[GreenMtnMan]

Thanks for all the detail and pics. Excellent! Where are the finished pics?

[i5racer]

I'm pretty sure the only things I left out were the Outback center driveshaft bushing and there are brackets to hang the muffler a little lower with the same rubber hangers. Longer bolts and spacers fixed problem #1 and the muffler is hung with copper wire at the moment, really ghetto but it's worked so far.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4090/4269/22724634013_large.jpg

Here's the most recent pic, I need new CV's because the boots got all gracked to hell from sitting and now the grease is all over. They went pretty long like that I'm guessing before I noticed and even longer before I noticed clicking. I need spanks for not rebooting them on install and double spanks for not doing it before they started with the chatter. I'm searching for rebuilt OEM axles now to replace the ones I neglected

[edyer21]

thats a wild car, i have 98 legacy sedan that i want to lift, so all you did was get the outback struts to lift it 1.5", no need for the springs?

[sifu]

Incredible post. Thanks

[i5racer]

thats a wild car, i have 98 legacy sedan that i want to lift, so all you did was get the outback struts to lift it 1.5", no need for the springs?
Outback struts are lifted at the base which allows for larger tires, I liked it at that height a lot but I have a demon that makes me push everything further