Hydraulic handbrake install

[snicker]

I've recently finished installing a hydraulic turning brake on my personal rally cross car and one for the my team Strafe Motorsports Open Light car. I've seen manypeople ask how to do this, so I'll post up some pics and explain how to get it done. Feel free to ask questions, and I'll answer best I can.

A few things

-Buy a craftsman brake flaring tool. Your going to break it. Just make sure you can return it for free, you know. I broke three in the process of two cars, and not because I did anything wrong, that little 3/16 adapter only lasts so long.
-you need a file
-you need a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit and drill
-a vise is always good
-Patients, you need some patients, and beer
-decide how far you want to go and be ready to spend some time doing this, We're talking about brakes, the MOST important part of the car!

[Rally OBXT]

What? your car still works? 8)

[snicker]

First I'll talk about flaring. If you do this wrong, you'll get hurt.

-cut the line cleanly with a pipe/line cutter
-use a file to clean up the cut, don't think because it looks good it is
-take a drill bit and chamfer the inner part of the line, a reamer works good too
-DON'T FORGET! Now is when you install the fitting on the line!
-set the line in the clamp and set the distance of line to be flared using the thickness of the adapter to be used
-clamp the line in the flaring clamp starting with the side closest to the line, make sure it's TIGHT! If it moves while you try to flare it, you have to cut it off and start again
-Insert the adapter and use the flaring tool to compress the intial flare until the base of the adapter is flush with the clamp, don't over tighten though, you'll just break the adapter
-remove the adapter and use the flaring tool to compress the line end again to finish the flare.
-most flaring sets will come with instructions that are close to correct
-Practice first, on a line you removed from the line, before trying to flare a line you just spent an hour bending to fit perfectly and screwing it up.
-Remember, if you screw up a flare, you can't salvage it, you have to cut it off and start over!

I started by cutting the front lines ~ 4 inches past where they reach the interior of the engine bay (see pic). Then I removed the rest of the front lines all the way to the master cylinder(see pic). Then I removed the ABS unit. Use a flexible measuring tape, like the one your mom uses to knit with, to measure the distance from bend to bend. Try to route all ines as tight as possible to the firewall. Once all front lines are removed, It's time to cut and flare the front lines. Cut and flare the lines coming from the brake caliper, where you cut them in the engine bay. If your routing to a certain point work, I found it best to work from that point, back to the M.C. I placed the tee in the line for the fronts in the center of the firewall, so to keep both lines exiting to the wheels, a similar length. When I reached the M.C., I used 10mm to 3/16" adapters. I used all Imperial sized parts due to ease of procurement.

[snicker]

What? your car still works? 8)

LOL, The Brakes are finished, ABS removed, lines installed from M.C. to the wheels, a Proportioning Valve now sits in the dash board, and the hydraulic turning brake is sensitive and comfortable to use. My new dccd controller is installed and my STi-RA DCCD is ready to be installed. My suspension is finished. I'm cleaning up my garage so I can build my brand new 2010 STi short block, heads are ready to bolt on, and I have a garage full of cosworth parts, almost every part of the engine will be brand new, I even bought new OEM nuts and bolts from subaru! One and a half years of waiting and drawing up plans for the setup on AutoCAD bro! I can't wait till it's finished but I won't rush it!

[snicker]

-Strip out the interior and glove box.
-remove the factory parking brake
-grind off any remaining studs and prime surface against rust
-decide where you want the handle and how you want it, as silly as it sound I like where the stock one is, I installed the CNC turning brake in the open light car up in front of the driver, I installed mine in the stock location just ~ 4mm towards the rear, and extended the lever length, and I angled it about ~10 degrees so I pulled it towards me.
- I used M8 x 1.25 allen cap bolts, so once I had the positioning I markthe holes and drilled and taped them
-Bolted down the bracket
-installed the lever
made sure "this is where I want it"
-cut the rear lines off about 6 inches from where they spiral into the chassis
-coupled them and ran them to a tee and ran that to the OUT fitting of the T.Brake cylinder.
-I then ran the line, from the in fitting, to my proportioning valve, the stock proportioning valve sits high in the engine bay, just follow it back from the ABS unit and you can't miss it, it could be reused if you wanted but if your going to do the work, you might as well install an adjustable brake proportioner.

I haven't talked about what I used to bend the lines, I think the bending pliers are ok but prefer a good line bender myself.

[Rally OBXT]

You have come a long way young grasshopper! :)

[flat4motorsports]

great install instructions !! :thumbsup:
i love my e-brake its the greatest in a tight turn
we sell this version in our shop. i know there may be better but i like this one

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/flat4motorsports/IMG_8203.jpg
you can see the whole car at flat4motorsports.net (http://www.flat4motorsports.net)

[Ty Ty]

-Patients, you need some patients

Why do you need those? Are they sacrificed to the car gods so that the job goes smoothly?

[MConte05]

Flat4, does that thing ever get in the way of shifting? Looks like it would.

[snicker]

Why do you need those? Are they sacrificed to the car gods so that the job goes smoothly?

You'd think all the blood I've spill from cutting myself on something under the car while trying to break free a stuck bolt, would suffice but the car gods are a greedy type!

[Ty Ty]

You'd think all the blood I've spill from cutting myself on something under the car while trying to break free a stuck bolt, would suffice but the car gods are a greedy type!

:lol2:

[snicker]

Heres a pic of the Rear lines to the tee-to-M.C.

[snicker]

Here are pics of everything plumbed to the M.C.
- I used an actual GMC truck Brakeline for the in and you'll see why later. Some time I'll swap it for a braided line but around here you can't find much.

[snicker]

I ran the line to the proportioning valve on the passenger side and up into the dash.

[snicker]

I get annoyed with the play in the M.C. so I used a spring to make the lever return to the correct position every time.

For those of you with aftermarket DCCD Controllers, on the back of the peice of metal with the spring, I installed my cut out switch. I used a peice of 16 ga and a body bumping hammer to form the metal to the transmission tunnel.

[snicker]

First, is a pic of the front and rear lines ran in the engine bay. Second, is the lines ran to the Master Cylinder. Third is a pic of the lines in the engine bay again. In the fourth pic the left most switch is fuel pump, then moving right it goes lighting, DCCD Controller, Brake Proportioning valve. At the last pic is showing the fitment of the handbrake in relation to stock. I used rubber insulated tie downs so vibration woulded wear on my lines, and I used stainless steel roffing screws with rubber grommets to apply them. I hope this helps guys.

[MConte05]

You using anything as a parking brake? Or does the hydraulic one have a locking mechanism?

[snicker]

It has a locking mechanism. Works great to! I love forgeting to break loose the rear wheels and just locking up the turning brake to get the lugs off!

[LURK]

wow, i'll take two please! one for each of my cars! snicker, how much did it cost ya?

[snicker]

Man, I don't quite know the total but a guess is ~ $300, thats including the tools. I only but the "armored" brakelines and 10.9 grade bolts and nuts, all the little hard ware can add up. It could be done for less but I don't skimp on brakes!

[JDwhiteWRX]

Is it possible to install one of these and retain the factory ABS?

[snicker]

not likely. You to bring both the rear lines into one line and then to the 'out' of the turning brake. This would make any 'pulsation' from the ABS controller null and void since it'd be sending it to both wheels. It might even 'freak out' since the ABS sensor wouldn't be getting the desired input and your braking would go from bad to worse real quick as the controller would keep fighting to correct the braking process. I'd suggest against it.

[shwagondawheels]

I like the setup..

pretty much this right with an adjustable porp valve right?
http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr230/shwagondawheels/brakeidea.jpg

[noisycricket]

Is it possible to install one of these and retain the factory ABS?

Yes but it's not cheap. You need a dual circuit handbrake: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Braking/Hydraulic_Handbrakes/Rix_Engineering_Tandem_Hydraulic_Handbrake/1722/3486

Installed in car: http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery_view&gallery=projectsmitsu&g=13 (manually choose picture #64)

An additional problem: If you apply the handbrake with the footbrake applied, you'll set an ABS code which may result in ABS deactivation. I haven't tried it on a Bosch (aka "generic nowadays) ABS but Delco ABS-IV doesn't like it when you do that :)

Given the nature of ABS, handbrake function should be a matter of software. Push a button, the ABS motor applies the rear brakes. Or, push a button, and the front brakes get held off when you stomp the brake pedal.

Hmm, that last one might be possible WITHOUT software hackery.

[shwagondawheels]

I'm just trying to keep the abs master and remove the abs module and route the lines simple as the diagram..

The abs was complete disabled electrically when I got the car anyways..

[Lebe Frei]

Thanks for the 'how to' snicker. I'll definitely be coming back to this thread when I'm ready to do mine

[snicker]

No prob. It'was cheap and straight forward. Good Luck

[fareda_mp4]

thankssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss

[Dan McGinn]

I think this is a winter mod for the rally car, I could have used a good handbrake for a couple of the tighter turns at NEFR

[kturner]

Good write up.

Why did you add a prop valve into the stock system. Is there ever a situation where you need less rear braking in a forward biased system? or did taking out the ABS module removal the dual diagonal and you are running one output of MC rear and one front. Then it would make sense.

[Gancherov]

How do you avoid the brake pedal getting all soft after you pull the hydraulic brake? I've heard this is the result of plumbing everything in-line to the rear calipers.

I've also been told that the only way around that 1-2 soft brake pumps after each hydraulic brake use is to run a second set of brake calipers on the rear wheels, which is also an interesting idea.

[noisycricket]

How do you avoid the brake pedal getting all soft after you pull the hydraulic brake? I've heard this is the result of plumbing everything in-line to the rear calipers.

It's a result of the distance between the rest position and when the piston finally closes the transfer hole. Until that point, the handbrake is pumping fluid backwards, and this needs to be un-done when the footbrake is applied.

It's a lot worse if the system hasn't been bled properly.

I tried a backstop on the handbrake lever, which just made the lever flex every time I hit the foot brake (mush mush). My next thought was to put a 2lb checkvalve (forgot term: is used in streetrods where the master is lower than the calipers) upstream of the handbrake. What I found was, the more I used it, the less the effect was pronounced, so i just left things alone.

A smaller handbrake master or a larger footbrake master will combat this. Really, the handbrake master SHOULD be the smallest you can get (.625") anyway.

Another thing that helped a lot was a change in technique. The more I learn to drive with having this driver's aid available, the less I use it. I mainly use it for hairpins or tight/sharp corners where I'm kinda hauling ass into it, so I'm hard on the brakes coming up to the corner, and I use the handbrake while still on the brakes. It's more of a corner entry finishing move than the only tool in the box.

[Nico Vance]

I wonder if I will have sufficient braking power if i combine the two lines in to one. To use an hydraulic handbrake .

[chubifcr]

It is neccesary to use proportion valves for the hydraulic handbrake to work correctly?
Chubi

[noisycricket]

Whether you need a prop valve or not entirely depends on the braking system as a whole - consider the handbrake to be a separate issue.

Any proportioning valves in the system need to be upstream of the handbrake. You want as much line pressure as you can get with the handbrake, so you don't want anything between it and the rear brakes. (So lots of leverage, like 11-12:1 minimum, and a .625" master cylinder) You're trying to lock up the rear brakes with weeny wimpy arm pressure instead of your leg and maybe some vacuum assist, after all.

[DFryatt]

Nice work - I'm about to finish my brake line plumbing tonight and your write up has been very helpful!

Cheers,