Co-Driver's footrest... What say you?

[Daniel B]

I'm stumped... :roll:

I'm trying to figure out a decent way to mount a secure footrest.

If possible I'd like to be able to adjust it or take it out and add a new one. I possibly have two Co-Drivers one who is 5'4" and the other is 6'3".

I'm hoping not to have to do any welding after I paint the shell. This is the second last thing on my list.

Pictures of what you've got would be awesome! Even if it won't work for me, it may get the creativity working.

Thanks!

(I'll get pictures up shortly to show what I've got in the area)

[thewizard]

Ours is mounted to 1inch square tubing that is mounted to the floor and hinges on the other end (makes cleaning easier as it flips open). Not adjustable either. Don't have pics sorry!

I would suggest you build it solid coz I already broke one on my buddys car while co driving at RTN

[bone_1113]

You could weld in two strips of square tubing on each end of the footrest, then drill wholes for different mounting positions

[Daniel B]

Ours is mounted to 1inch square tubing that is mounted to the floor and hinges on the other end (makes cleaning easier as it flips open). Not adjustable either. Don't have pics sorry!

I would suggest you build it solid coz I already broke one on my buddys car while co driving at RTN

Hinged from the top or bottom? On a tube Like I've got? (pics below)

You could weld in two strips of square tubing on each end of the footrest, then drill wholes for different mounting positions

Part way there... ;-)

~~~~~

Here's what I've got now:

A square tube with six M6 weldnuts in it. The tube allows for a flat surface (other than the crooked floor).


http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/rally%20car/aPicture015.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/rally%20car/aPicture088.jpg

I'm tempted to run anoter one across the floor in front of it, but can't commit.

I've broken the one in the car I co-drive for. It had a bracket welded to the transmision tunel. I didn't like loosing it.

The cage tubes are sort of "in the way" on the outside. I'd prefer not to weld anything to them.

I was thinking about bending some aluminum sheet for the footrest and attaching it to the tube . Then bending another sheet in a "V" running from the base of the footrest to the ECU cover plate (see picture below). Then back to the top of the footrest.

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/rally%20car/aPicture003-3.jpg

I'll draw a picture tomorrow to better illustrate what I'm planning and to get some feedback.

[carl]

yea I need to do this too so we don't break the ecu lol

[Daniel B]

yea I need to do this too so we don't break the ecu lol


Thats one of the reasons I'm worried about the design I was planning to use... It would still put weight on the ECU cover.

[thewizard]

ours is hinged on the bottom

[KevinWelker]

my codriver is about 5'9" and we've just used the stock one. Hasn't let us down yet.

[Daniel B]

Okay, here's what I'm thinking...

You have to bear with me and use your imagination :)

The red lines are to represent the actual footrest. The green lines are to represent another bent sheet of aluminum. I'm hoping that it will add enough support to the footrest.

What are your thoughts. If you think it would work, what thickness aluminum would you recomend? Can I bend aluminum past 90 degrees? Should I make two bends instead of just the one at the base of the "V"?
Thanks.

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/footrest1.jpg

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/footrest2.jpg

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/footrest3.jpg

[KevinWelker]

I personally would NOT want to concentrate the load onto such a small area of the stock footrest, it's just not meant to be loaded like that and would likely start to bend in quickly (and damage your ECU).

For all the work you've done already you could just buy one and be finished so you can move on to something else.

$89 Sparco from Sube Sports.

http://www.rallysport.ca/rally_equip/product_photos/sparco_footrest_150.jpg

[thewizard]

^^^
I bent/broke one of those at RTN

[JacksonRally]

I still need to make one for Keith. Really have not put any thought into it yet...but definetly planning on moving the ECU up under the dash. There was alot of water at IRNY.

[Jard]

I would think you would want to weld those tubes the other way...perpendicular to what's in there now.

Run 2 tubes down both sides with holes in it like you have now...then you can unbolt the footrest and just move it 6" back or forward.

...and +2 on relocating that ECU up higher.

Planning to plate that footwell with anything to strengthen it?

[carl]

yea I think I might just move my ecu and then reinforce the factory plate

[tzdevill]

I have absolutely no backing on this but I think move the ecu up and then mounted a square box style to the stock footrest bolts or reinforced area. Or better yet use the lower part that you have and then just use the stock bolts for braces and tie in on the upper portion of it. could also be made somewhat adjustable if you ever needed a different taller/shorter co-driver.

Jeremy

[Jard]

yea I think I might just move my ecu and then reinforce the factory plate
Are your seats mounted pretty far forward? I'm thinking that I wouldn't be able to reach the factory ECU cover when I'm belted in. I'm about 6' even.

edit: This is in dirty's GC.

[carl]

Are your seats mounted pretty far forward? I'm thinking that I wouldn't be able to reach the factory ECU cover when I'm belted in. I'm about 6' even.
yes, the factory plate is a natural footrest with how the seat is positioned right now.

[Daniel B]

Are your seats mounted pretty far forward?


Mine are... well... not so far forward.

Co-Driver seat back is ~3" from the harness bar in the main hoop.

[Jard]

Mine are... well... not so far forward.

Co-Driver seat back is ~3" from the harness bar in the main hoop.
Good!

Do you understand what I mean about turning the mounting rails the other way?

[KevinWelker]

Mine are... well... not so far forward.

Co-Driver seat back is ~3" from the harness bar in the main hoop.

3" is pretty far actually, why not move it so the seat back is right up against the tube? you have to do all the fab work regardless of where it sits. For us it was a compromise of the location of the main hoop to B pillar and the seating location of the driver to keep the driver's belts as short as possible and keep the stock location of the pedals and steering wheel within reach. Everything fell together nicely for the codriver as a result. Great design by Subaru or just coincidence? you decide.

[Daniel B]

Good!

Do you understand what I mean about turning the mounting rails the other way?


Check this out:
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,34801,34853#msg-34853

[Jard]

Check this out:
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,34801,34853#msg-34853
Yeah, like that. :lol:

I swear I didn't see that thread before answering.

Theirs is all fancy though. You could do the same thing with solid tubes, weld nuts, and bolts. That might actually be more secure than the slider? You would lose some of the range of adjustability though.

[Daniel B]

3" is pretty far actually, why not move it so the seat back is right up against the tube?

I wanted both Co-Driver's elbows and shoulders to be as far as possible from door tubes. I likes that in the car I co-drove for. I'd be much happier breaking a bone that a joint.

3" distance was so that the harness angle was within HANS spec angles even with the variation in height (acounting for seat height adjustment)

And, room for the battery :headbang:

EDIT: And 3" is with the seat fully vertical. When reclined it wil touch the harness bar.

[Daniel B]

What I need is a finished car!
So here's what I ended up with. I'm confident I can mount a solid footrest to this:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/rally%20car/aPicture307.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/rally%20car/aPicture310.jpg

[sniper1rfa]

I'm confident you could pick the car up with that...

[Daniel B]

I'm confident you could pick the car up with that...


Yup! :headbang:

[Jard]

Baller!

[Daniel B]

Baller!

Haha.

I basically just copied what you said, but left the old tube.

I would think you would want to weld those tubes the other way...perpendicular to what's in there now.

Run 2 tubes down both sides with holes in it like you have now

My thinking behind the original tube was that the floorboards are crooked (I needed something flat), I wanted something I could still paint, and I didn't want it shifting everytime I run over a rock.

As for plating the floorboards... No plans for that. I'm going to run UHWM-PE, 1/8th inch thick. And, the cage feet are tied in pretty well near the front. I figure that with all of the OEM sheet metal bracing under there, it should be pretty strong as it is.

[KevinWelker]

I've seen that the front floorboards don't take that much bashing compared to the rears. Mine are pushed up a good 2-3 inches all over, even with the UHMW-PE. I just go back there with a hammer every few rallys and beat them back close to where they belong. I would think long and hard about putting anything on the floor back there.

[Daniel B]

I would think long and hard about putting anything on the floor back there.


DOH! :pissed:

See post #167:

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8553&page=12

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

[KevinWelker]

uh yeah, on our car that recessed area where you have the single D ring is now ABOVE the area where you welded the bracket. Now that is after a couple of seasons of rally here in the desert where we have BIG rocks strewn about all over. Maybe it won't be an issue for you. The pelican box should protect the battery itself, but keep an eye on the box and mounts.

This is why I question why so many of the new builds get so "cute" with so many things when the OEM stuff works just great and allows you to get out on stage faster and with more money still in your pocket.

[Daniel B]

This is why I question why so many of the new builds get so "cute" with so many things when the OEM stuff works just great and allows you to get out on stage faster and with more money still in your pocket.

I'll do my best to answer your question. It's just relevant to my personal situation. I just ran a sum of all the "cute" things I've done since September 15th. It cost me $86 in metal, $45 in welding consumables, and $55 in consumable tools. That's Canadian dollars.

I've spent ~75 hours on the "cute" stuff. I've mentioned it before, and I'm happy to say it now; I love doing this stuff - just as much as I like driving.

That's less than $2.50/hour to have a lot of fun playing with my car, improving my car, and improving my fabrication skills.

I also don't have a source of income that can easily or responsibly be diverted to rally. It takes me serious time and planing to build up funds in the rally account (Co-Driving costs me money too).

Moving past the value of enjoyment, I think of the development of the car. Once I get this car to the stages I certainly don't want to spend more time fixing things than need be. I'd like to spend my time on maintenace and further development, rather than reworking overlooked areas. I'm much more comfortable with the idea of looking back at things one year from now and thinking, 'Hey, I guess I didn't need to do that' than looking back and thinking 'Damn, I wish I'd adressed that when I had the chance'. At this point, if I want to make a change or add something to the car, I just do it, Nothing is in the way, I don't need to dissasemble the car to get better access. I don't need to worry about touching up the pain (for rust issues not beauty). Everything is as simple to work on as it ever will be.

I've also had the experience of developing cars before. Track cars mind you - totaly different beasts. But I do know that although one or two small changes may not be felt immediately, once a few things are done systematically, the changes can be felt. Cars can tranform into easier to work on, easier to drive toys by just improving a few little things here and there. (Insert the "7 P's" here).

If the Battery is the current example of "cute". I'll share my thinking on it. I priced out a brand new Optima Red/Yellow Top battery. For the same price, I can buy: another rally proven battery (that is lighter), a case for it, mounting materials, wire, a circut breaker, a firewall bulkhead, and a few zipties. All it takes for me to improve the car is some extra time.

I'm not in a hurry to be on the stages as a driver. There is always a "Right Seat" waiting for me. When this car is ready, I'll hit the stages. In the mean time, the cost of suspension, engine, wiring, clutch, and paint are all far greater than the cost of all the cute little improvements I've been doing as a way to relax at the end of a long day.

It's just my point of view, but I get asked the same question you posed to me on fairly regular basis, so I thought I'd type it out.

[thewizard]

Hey Danny B,
Did you run TP 2009?

[Daniel B]

Yup!

You too?

[d'cheat]

Has anybody thought about mounting the foot rest to a set of car seat sliders? Ya know. Pull a lever and slide forward/backward to accommodate a co-drivers height.

[Daniel B]

Check this out:
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,34801,34853#msg-34853


Indeed. Good call though.

[thewizard]

Yeah, we were in my buddy's Red GTI #59

[Dan McGinn]

Thread Resurrection: what did you all decide? We're going with......an old ramp. Yup, I have one of those old drive-up ramps, the ones that shadetree mechanics use for oil changes etc. I'm taking the top portion, where the car actually sits, it is a nice punch/flared section with 1/2" holes and using that for the footrest. I chopped the whole thing apart and the section I ned only weighs about 2lbs, but it is very, very strong. So that's what we're going to do. I'm probably going to fab up some nice brackets like Daniel B did on his car.*

Please post pics if you've come up with something since this was last discussed.


*BTW, before anyone says, "but you can but XXXXX for only $$$$ and you wouldn't have to do all that fabrication" you have to understand that I love the fabrication portion as much as the driving, and with a fully outfitted shop, it is no problem whatsoever.