2.2 turbo-ing

[Gnome]

Hey, i have a 1996 GC8 2.2litre coupe black...
its a nice looking car, but its a little slow...
im looking to turbo it and thusly im looking for all the parts i'll need...
to just turbo it, then to make it faster... so if i can get a list of parts i'll need for the bare basics... its all stick drivetrain At the moment but i can build alot of what i want, but for as in-expensive as possible...
Or should i just try an swap it?
Gnome-Ginxzed

[Tim.Flat4]

I suggest you learn how a turbocharger works with your engine so you understand what is involved.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

As far as parts, there is a lot involved even if you go the cheap route of buying used Subaru bits. Basically you'll need the turbo itself, a wastegate if you don't use an ineternally gated turbo, either a top of front mounted intercooler, whole exhaust, intake pipe with filter, engine management, clutch, and assuming you're using the stock brakes those should be upgraded too.

The only thing you'll be able to make yourself is the exhaust and intercooler piping if you use a front mount.

This is a huge ordeal to undertake and you must have a sound understanding of how turbocharges work and how to tune fuel and air/fuel trims so your call will run properly. This is by no means an "easy" power maker.

[Gnome]

yea i am in a mechanics class at college i do have a decent understanding of how a turbo works... but it would probably be better off just swapping?

[subydrift]

The above is true, to an extent.

I turboed my old 95' 1.8 L for under 1,000 bucks and it ran pretty good (not great) but it ran for about 40k miles until I took the kit off.

Understanding what you"ll need for it and why is important though. I suggest you jump on RS25.com and look around in there turbo threads for insight on how to do it. If you have welding skills then you'll save a ton of money and time and it will be much more conceivable.

There are loads of threads in here about turboing L model imprezas and the pros and cons of it.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7-turbo-superchargers

But if your handy and are set on turboing then you could find a stock TD04 turbo for cheap, stock WRX or SAAB intercooler, custom build your up-pipe and down-pipe with the flanges, custom make your own intake pipe, find a used external wastegate and run a 3-5 psi spring for reliability, some RS side feed injectors, and a 12:1 FMU for more fuel and it will run pretty good. Not great though, your gas mileage will suck and it won't be as reliable but it will be much faster for about a grand and some work.

The only real reliable way to turbo is to swap though.

[ahowell]

I must agree with Tim. do a ton of research before jumping into a project like this. Make a parts list and decide what will work best for your application. Many people think that adding a turbo will make their car faster, I would suggest work on your driving skills, suspension and brake upgrades before looking for power. I swapped my GF two years ago and did about 6 months of hunting for parts and researching before I started the swap.
If you are trying to do it on the cheap, I would suggest a VF11 turbo (90º turbo inlet), an 06-07 wrx TMIC, wrx 440 injectors and a complete wrx exhaust (header, upipe, turbo back) since your car is ODB-II you can probably opensource tune it.

Good luck with your build.

Not to nit-pick but as your car sits now it is a GM4, not a GC8

[Tim.Flat4]

Oops, I forgot to address fuel! Good catch.

And even swaps aren't all that reliable seeing as you're buying a used motor. Look how many "my motor is dead" threads are on RS25 while you're over there. JDM swaps, especially the EJ20K get grenaded. With that being said, I would swap before turbocharging my stock n/a motor.

I don't know if the OP is okay with not having a reliable car but that doesn't appeal to me one bit. Sure, the 1.8s and 2.2s are slow but I know I can drive my L in to the ground and it will still start tomorrow.

[subydrift]

Sure, the 1.8s and 2.2s are slow but I know I can drive my L in to the ground and it will still start tomorrow.

This sums it up.^^^^^

The EJ18s and EJ22s are super strong motors. I drive my 1.8 hard as hell and it always idles smooth and starts up for work the next day. So unless you have a load of money for a swap and/or an extra car i would stay away from the turbo.

You can get some pretty good torque out of the 2.2s with the usual bolt ons and some cams. Another good alternative for more power for us L owners is to swap in a EJ25 Phase 2 longblock. Depending on how much you can find a motor for it is a solid boost in HP and torque with no other mods but you get a motor that benefits from mods well also. Look into it....

[Hairy Sheep]

ive never honestly thought my 5spd 2.2 was That slow, it beats 3.4l camaros and 5.0l thunderbirds, an gets awesome fuel mileage. my automatic 2.2 cant do either though

i think a swap would come out cheaper in the end also with less time spent. front what i have heard the ej22t uses the same computer as the ej22. so you only need to swap the motor basically, leaving out ALOT of fitment work that might be required with a custom setup.

[Gnome]

Not to nit-pick but as your car sits now it is a GM4, not a GC8

gm4 vs gc8?

and i understand now that a turbo on this car aint going to happen :)
so im just going to build it up... i can already beat all the v-tecs n' others at our school... so i'm going to buy stuff to just boost my power and braking power etc... so w/o a turbo what is the best way to build and put power into my car... it going to be in rallycross next year... and i would like a new suspension but i probably cant afford one... any ideas now? as it sits all i have is a muffler and thats not even very nice i just knocked off my old one >.< so starting new now what should i start with?

[RS MN]

suspension on the cheap?
WRX 20mm Rear Sway Bar.
KYB GR2 (or AGX if youve got a bit more cash) struts.
RS stock springs.
Ebay front and rear strut tower bars.

all that (with GR2's not AGX's) will most likely be less than $500.
maybe even less than $400 if you can find some deals.

[Newk_Rally]

1993-2001

Model, with Engine designations.

GC2 = 4 door (http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192215#) w/ 1.8L engine
GC4 = 4 door w/ 2.2L engine
GC6 = 4 door w/ 2.5L engine
GC8 = 2/4 door w/ 2.0L w/Turbo engine

GM2 = 2 door w/ 1.8L engine
GM4 = 2 door w/ 2.2L engine
GM6 = 2 door w/ 2.5L engine

Sti Engine Version Designations.

V1 or Ver. I (GC8A/B): Model or "Version" STi impreza (http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192215#) produced in Japan (RHD) from 1992-1994

V2 or Ver. II (GC8C): Model or "Version" STi produced in Japan (RHD) from 1995-mid 1996

V3 or Ver. III (GC8D): Model or "Version" STi produced in Japan (RHD) from mid 1996- mid 1997

V4 or Ver. IV (GC8E): Model or "Version" STi produced in Japan (RHD) from mid 1997-mid 1998

V5 or Ver. V (GC8F): Model or "Version" STi produced in Japan (RHD) from mid 1998- mid 1999)

V6 or Ver. VI (GC8G): Model or "Version" STi produced in Japan (RHD) from mid 1999- mid 2000)

V7 or Ver. VII (GD Rev. A-C?): Commonly used way to refer to post Ver VI STi parts produced for STi's from 2001-late 2003. Most commonly used to distinguish between the pre-01 EJ207 engine, the "Ver VII" EJ207 and the "Ver VIII or V8" EJ207 because of significant mechanical differences between them.

V8 or Ver. VIII (GD Rev. C-E/F?): Commonly used way to refer to post Ver VI STi parts produced for STi's from 2003- 2005. See Above
Copied from RS25.com

[RS MN]

huh, never knew a RS coupe was considered a GM6,
thanks Bug I!

[Newk_Rally]

yeah actually i didn't either i'm happy i looked this up for him

[RS MN]

yeah actually i didn't either i'm happy i looked this up for him

i guess i just considered it a USDM GC8 in my mind.

[Gnome]

damn thats a good priced suspension
im going to look for all those parts

[Newk_Rally]

yeah it's a pretty common setup over here also you might want to look into some obs springs they will give you car a small lift that works well for rally-x i'm personally going to go with kyb agx's with 98 obs spring and a front sway bar not rear so i'll be a little bit more tail happy =D

[RS MN]

RS25, and NASIOC for the RSB.
also you could look up the guy i got my RSB from, his username is RSCONVERT on here and RS25, just tell him i referred you.

i got my GR2's from ebay for $250-$275 i think.

i have an RS, so springs were on the car for me (you could ask RSCONVERT about those too)

the strut tower bars are about $45 shipped for a set of both front and rear. they are all over ebay.

oh and the difference between the GR2's and AGX's, are that the AGX's are adjustable while the GR2's are not, but when is the last time you felt the need to pull over and adjust your suspension anyways?

[RS MN]

yeah it's a pretty common setup over here also you might want to look into some obs springs they will give you car a small lift that works well for rally-x i'm personally going to go with kyb agx's with 98 obs spring and a front sway bar not rear so i'll be a little bit more tail happy =D

did not know that about the OBS springs, and the STi RSB with the stock FSB lets me get real tail happy, so i guess it would be whatever you prefer.

ive been told having a bigger FSB than RSB gives you more understeer, but ive also been told it doesnt, so personal preference i guess. maybe try them both out if youve got the money!

[ahowell]

Swaybar choice is really up to your driving style. I have Whiteline 22mm adjustables on mine, I have the front hard and the rear in the middle setting which gives me a fairly neutral feeling. As far as strut spring combos go, the AGX w/ STi springs are working out great for me. The AGX struts need a stiffer than stock spring or they will blow, I had Whiteline Control Low springs on before and blew 6 struts in 2 years. Don't forget about bushings (rear diff, shifter, lateral links, trailing arms, front control arms) stiffer bushings can make a world of difference in the cornering feel of your car.

[abest10]

Ok I say go for it. I absolutely love my homemade 2.2 turbo. I did it super cheap(under $500). What I used-
Fueling-stock injectors, Walbro fuel pump, Vortech FMU with a 7:1 plate(good for the MAF based cars like yours and mine and my egts are only 1300* at full boost.)
Engine-ej22e stock shortblock with 130k miles, ej22t heads(sure they dont flow worth a shat but already have the oil/coolant for the turbo and are super cheap), I used my 2.2 intake manifold with existing harness and such. Direct swap for the engine, no wiring/modding needed), Legacy Turbo uppipe(catless just like the Sti one), wrx exhaust manifold, TD-04, catless 3'' TBE, 06 WRX IC with a modded BOV, custom intake with cone filter coming straight off turbo. And a wrx water pump to clear the turbo exhaust manifold.

Youre also going to have to do something with the crossmember, I swapped in an 03 wrx one but you have to shim the control arm bushings to make it fit right. A Legacy Turbo is a direct bolt in affair or you could just notch your stock one. Youre also going to need some check valves. These need to be placed on your charcoal canister(so you dont smelll gas under boost)

Ive hit 18 psi on it and no engine management. Sure its not the best way but damn does it work.

Pics of the engine
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/abest10/Picture091.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/abest10/subie079.jpg
Custom fabbed intake
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/abest10/subie077.jpg
Vortech FMU setup
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/abest10/fmu2.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/abest10/fmu1.jpg
My homemade recirced BOV
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/abest10/bov001.jpg

[Gnome]

thats nice sounding:) but is reliable?

[abest10]

3k+ miles and has never let me down. Stock clutch on 4 drag race trips and an autocross. So ya its reliable :)

[RS MN]

i still think you should put your money into suspension for now.
it will be better in the long run.

if down the road you still want to turbo or swap it, then you can, and you wouldnt have to worry about doing suspension upgrades after the fact.

[Newk_Rally]

+1^^

[Gnome]

im not trying to bump an old post....
but my friend (josh) same exact car as mine... and he rocks the DI banner without actually being on here lol
but he is convinced turboing is not a bad idea at all...
his argument is keeping the psi super low would keep it running okay... pros/cons?
he would put on a trubo and i dont remember what else he would be doing

[wagonryan]

it all comes down to what you really want for your car, RIGHT NOW. do you want to hit boost and understeer everywhere because your suspension isn't up to par or be able to take your car to the limits with what I think is okay power, at least for my needs.

[Gnome]

Oh lol btw the suspensions done on Josh and i's car

[RS MN]

Oh lol btw the suspensions done on Josh and i's car

all done?
like what?

[Gnome]

mine has rs springs and kyb AGX.
his is WRX with smth else...
im getting sti RSB and ebay strut braces once i fix my front end...
Josh and i found the sickest place out by where we live too... well he did and friday im going with him there...
but its apparently a Suby bone yard and tons of cheap suby stuff from wrecked cars and such im pretty excited ;)

[Gnome]

to merge engine harnesses would this the majiggy i need?
http://www.flat4motorsports.net/store/micro_Stores/NEW%20ITEMS/Blitz%20Turbo%20Timer%20Wire%20Harness%20Impreza%2 0WRX%202002-2007.html

[Newk_Rally]

no that's a trubo timer harness i don't know what goes into merging the two but i know you can send them out to have it done there's a link some where on DI if i find it i'll be sure to post it for you

[Newk_Rally]

I have a 20g swap in my 98 L. It's basically the same thing that you want to do except the wiring is slightly different than that on your 00.
The engine/trans driveshaft, everything bolts right in, but like previously mentioned you will need to do a wire harness merge. The best thing to do is have Iwire (Brian) on RS25.com do the wiring.
Your approach should be something like this:
Yank the harness (full dash harness) out of your L and send that along with the uncut harness that comes with your engine set to Iwire.
While he's doing your merge, you remove all of the mechanical parts and swap them over to the new 20g parts.
Receive your harness back and button her up and fire her up. :)

Please feel free to pm me any questions you may have regarding the swap.

-Kurt

ps - If you contact Brian @ Iwire, tell him Kurt sent you. ;)

found this

[Gnome]

hmmm i want to swap lol

[RS MN]

harness merge will generally cost around $500-600 IIRC.
or if your confident if your wiring capabilities, you can try and do it yourself.

[Gnome]

hahaha me+wires=fire
taylor on the otherhand is a beast

[RS MN]

i feel confident in my wiring abilities, but no where near confident enough to do a harness merge.
so many wires.

[Gnome]

taylor is wanting to become a electrical engineer soooo he has an okay idea how too. and my other buddies brother is a engineer for PGE

[RS MN]

well there ya go then lol.

[Gnome]

yea except i dunno what i wanna do, sigh
wrx, or a swap if i go wrx what year lol what body lol what do i swap into mine lol etc etc so many choices

[Gnome]

hey what do yall think of offering on this engine and putting all the bits together?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=29847011&posted=1#post29847011