DIY Skid Plate

[munozppk]

How feasible is it? I was looking the the PSG Skid Plate and all it looks like is a sheet aluminum with some holes drilled in. Is that pretty much it? Because if it is, im going to do that. Unless someone tells me not to.

[lorenkb]

If you can source 3/16 aluminum plate, and can gain access to a brake, it's an easy DIY. The front edge (as well as the rear for good measure) need to be angled so they don't catch, hence needing the brake. If you feel like really hating yourself you could always try and use a sledgehammer to angle the front and rear (success not guaranteed, failure likely, batteries sold separately)

EDIT: Aluminum isn't exactly cheap either, so by the time you bought it and payed someone for the use of their brake you would probably be paying as much or more than if you just bought one from Primitive, PSG, etc.

[I Like It Sideways]

1/8" or 3/16" aluminum is all you need
You can find pricing here (http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1246&step=4&showunits=inches&id=76&top_cat=60)
(for 6061 T6)

[munozppk]

Alright. Thanks guys. Im going to go for it! And I have the hookup, my friend works for a metal shop. :D

[munozppk]

OH YEAH!!

Does any one know if the PSG (or any other) skid plate screws on to plastic or metal. Because the only thing I have to screw on to is the same hard plastic the stock skid plate is screwed on to.


Did I make that difficult enough to understand? haha. :shootsself:

[Azewaldo]

My Impreza has it bolted into the metal frame. You'd be best to find some solid metal anchor points to bolt into. In the event that the plate gets used, that plastic will probably yield. Also, the aluminum plate will have several times more mass than the plastic shield & the plastic probably isn't up to the task of keeping it attached.

My 2¢

[UP2MTNS]

Alright. Thanks guys. Im going to go for it! And I have the hookup, my friend works for a metal shop. :D

really....you'll have to introduce me to your friend ;)

[bergdh]

look hard and you can find some metal, I have a 3 and you could attach it near the rear lower engine mount and cross member, and somewhere up front. you might have to make some sort of other support as well.

[UP2MTNS]

let me know when/where you work on this....if I can, I'll come by and help. Or drink a beer and watch. :)

[BlackParis]

... if your buddy works in a metal shop he shouldn't have much of a problem helping you make mounting points/supports... Just make sure they lead to the frame or Subframe...

[lorenkb]

Alright. Thanks guys. Im going to go for it! And I have the hookup, my friend works for a metal shop. :D

Well shoot, should be easy with acces to a metal shop! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[munozppk]

So my friend couldnt find a sheet big enough to work with, because he's been checking the scrap pile, so I was thinking about over laying two sheets and riveting or welding them together. Good idea? Bad idea? At least as a short term solution. I really wanted it for Antioch but the course doesnt rough enough to the point where I need a heavy skid plate so maybe I dont have to rush.

I still have to see if I can do some work at the shop he works at. If I cant, I might have to go to my old high school in San Jose to see if my former metal shop teacher will let me use his shop. So no beers... :(

[munozppk]

look hard and you can find some metal, I have a 3 and you could attach it near the rear lower engine mount and cross member, and somewhere up front. you might have to make some sort of other support as well.

Do you think you can get some pictures to help me get a better idea of what to do?

[UP2MTNS]

look hard and you can find some metal, I have a 3 and you could attach it near the rear lower engine mount and cross member, and somewhere up front. you might have to make some sort of other support as well.

Do you think you can get some pictures to help me get a better idea of what to do?

these 5 mounting points already had holes inthe subframe to bolt into, just a matter of getting the holes right in the aluminum plate.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2306000-2306999/2306310_61_full.jpg

[munozppk]

What if I get a picture of my underside and draw some arrows to possible points and you guys can give me the yay or nay. I dont want to screw the plate to a weak point. Ya feel me?

[bergdh]

well a few things here....

the mazda 3 is not a rally car by any means, but can do pretty well in auto x and rally x. A skid plate is overkill for a scca rally cross as the rules if followed would never allow for anything that you would need a skid plate for.

you should have a plastic one in place now, mine ripped of on some lonely dirt road a long time ago.

A skid is designed to prevent large rocks from hitting the engine and tranny and other stuff under the car. up2mtns should have no trouble showing you where to mount it up, but take the plastic off and that will expose many bolt in locations, from the engine mount, cross member to other bolts that you can drill a hole and use to secure the plate. Just make sure its not a "extremly lose it and die bolt" cause if you rip it off you can mess some stuff up.

I would not use a 2 piece design, the more bolts and seams and pieces the weaker it is...to a point.

[409industries]

well id definitely say make sure its mounting to something solid.... subframe at least. im interested to see what you come up with.

[munozppk]

well id definitely say make sure its mounting to something solid.... subframe at least. im interested to see what you come up with.

Yeah me too! It just might take a while.....

[UP2MTNS]

well id definitely say make sure its mounting to something solid.... subframe at least. im interested to see what you come up with.

Yeah me too! It just might take a while.....

btw, did you ever get your struts looked at? You're planning on going to Gorman, yes? I'd take care of that before you head down there, the last thing you want is to totally blow a strut and/or spring 400 miles from home. (I"m going to have a packed car and can't bail you out....haha)

If you don't already have a trusted mechanic, take it to John at Metropolitan Motors, 721 Bryant St. in SOMA. He does all my work that's not Suby pro-tune/ecu related. Drop my name and hopefully he can hook you up.....free estmate at least.

JB

[munozppk]

Since we're heading off topic..... I HAVE SOME TERRIBLE NEWS.


I took my car to Big O Tires, but they said my struts were fine. And it was not a suspension problem at all. So then I took it to the Mazda dealership since my car is still under warranty. They told me that all three engine mounts had failed. That was the knocking noise. They also told me that the Clutch Cable is making contact with something and that it needs to be adjusted. But as usual, they dont have the part there so its going to take some time to get it in and I wont get my car back until Monday. Which means no Antioch for me. :(

The good news is that the mounts are going to be replaced free of charge but its going to cost me $200 to fix the clutch cable (if I get it done there).

So pretty much Im not going to Gorman either.

Im pretty bummed out about it.

Since I'll be saving some money and I'll have more free time, I'm just plan to make my car more RallyX ready. Hopefully I can make it out to JV.

[sebhockey]

That sucks man, at least the mounts are under warranty. I'm suprised they arent fixing the cable under warranty too. Maybe you should take it elsewhere to get that fixed if in fact it is a problem.

[UP2MTNS]

Since we're heading off topic..... I HAVE SOME TERRIBLE NEWS.


I took my car to Big O Tires, but they said my struts were fine. And it was not a suspension problem at all. So then I took it to the Mazda dealership since my car is still under warranty. They told me that all three engine mounts had failed. That was the knocking noise. They also told me that the Clutch Cable is making contact with something and that it needs to be adjusted. But as usual, they dont have the part there so its going to take some time to get it in and I wont get my car back until Monday. Which means no Antioch for me. :(

The good news is that the mounts are going to be replaced free of charge but its going to cost me $200 to fix the clutch cable (if I get it done there).

So pretty much Im not going to Gorman either.

Im pretty bummed out about it.

Since I'll be saving some money and I'll have more free time, I'm just plan to make my car more RallyX ready. Hopefully I can make it out to JV.

dude, consider yourself lucky that you caught it (all 3 engine mounts going is baaaaad)....and 2) that you're getting it replaced for free....engine mounts are expensive, and its not the easiest thing in the world to do.

for the cable, I'm telling you, go to John at metropolitan motors...tell him I sent you and tell him the $200 quote, I bet he'll be cheaper.


BTW, did you totally clean off your car? did either mechanic ask you about dirt in weird places on your car? haha

[munozppk]

HAHAHA! I made sure I cleaned everything off of my car. Especially my wheel wells. I must have dug out about 5 lbs of dirt from my back wells. The guys at Big O asked me what I was doing, it doesnt matter that they know. But Mazda didnt ask anything, which was cool. It was funny because when I got a call back from Mazda, I was so nervous that they were going to ask if Ive been doing anything crazy with my car. HAHA!

[bergdh]

"Since we're heading off topic..... I HAVE SOME TERRIBLE NEWS.


I took my car to Big O Tires, but they said my struts were fine. And it was not a suspension problem at all. So then I took it to the Mazda dealership since my car is still under warranty. They told me that all three engine mounts had failed. That was the knocking noise. "

This same thing happened to me in one rally x event. dont worrt about the dirt, mazda supports racing and wont void the warranty for racing. all three on mine whent out too. plus I bent the left drive shaft. only after all this I concluded that I would need someother car to rally. the engine mounts on the mazda are super soft and the way they sit they will tear everytime you hit chatter bumps at speed the suspension is to soft transfering it all into the frame and engine mounts rip to shreads. Its unfortunate, I love my mazda, but had to move onto something more rallyable.


by the way check out www.mazdaspeedmotorsports.com if u have been to 2 races sign up for the support program and you can get cheap parts!

[munozppk]

I saw that website. I was hoping Antioch would be one of the two races I need.

[bergdh]

ya its just any two races you enter, you just email them the results and your in.

[munozppk]

I was checking out aluminum sheets on ebay and Im thinking I could possibly get a good deal. Do I want 6061 grade? and should I get 3/16' or 1/8'? Im thinking 3/16' go big or go home right?

[UP2MTNS]

I was checking out aluminum sheets on ebay and Im thinking I could possibly get a good deal. Do I want 6061 grade? and should I get 3/16' or 1/8'? Im thinking 3/16' go big or go home right?

if price is similar, sure, but 1/8th will protect you pretty well for rallyX.

[munozppk]

$157.96 for 1/8" X 48" X 48" 6061-t651 aluminum plate.

Total with shipping to my house. Go for it or should I keep on looking?

[UP2MTNS]

$157.96 for 1/8" X 48" X 48" 6061-t651 aluminum plate.

Total with shipping to my house. Go for it or should I keep on looking?

that's the price of a pre-fabbed 3/16in plate. keep looking. 4ft by 4ft? that's huge.

[BorkedWRX]

that mazdaspeed motorsports program is cool, too bad subaru doesn't do something like that :/

[munozppk]

UPDATE!!!


I finally measured my car and I need a 32"x32" plate. Time to go price shopping!


Bad news is that I have to screw the plate to plastic. At least for now. I might have to fab some brackets to the nearest part of the frame. Bad idea?

[rllyrckt]

brackets sound better than a plastic mount, just my suggestion

[ten80]

definitely use metal brackets. If you have to order aluminum online, http://cutsmetal.net/ (fixed link) has pretty good prices and I've used them for years. Can you post a picture of the underside of your engine bay, I might be able to provide a few pointers.

[rllyrckt]

that link doesnt work,

[munozppk]

here is the first design i made, you have to look at it a while to get which lines are the plate and which ones for the dimensions. Theres 5.5 inches coming out of the left to protect the alternator.
http://a825.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/64/l_e3819ee85d52fc84615315e74cad0db0.jpg

I want to get a picture of the underside but i dont have a camera handy but i do have the pictures from the workshop manual.

http://a12.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/34/l_21cb5c20f5fe097819e3fc62d3d794eb.png

As you can see, the only part of the frame i can screw the skid plate onto is between points D thru G. AS OF NOW, for the front part of the plate, i have to screw it on to the same plastic the stock skid plate was connected to.

The brackets i will probably have to fab will come down from the frame between points A thru C. I just have to see how feasible that will be.

[munozppk]

I just got a crazy idea after looking at this.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/RTK_GC_Skid500.jpg

Instead of fabing brackets what if i get a bigger piece of sheet aluminum and cut out extension like the two out of the rallitek coming out of the bottom and far right that will screw onto the frame somewhere between points A and C.


feedback please.

[rllyrckt]

I just got a crazy idea after looking at this.

Instead of fabing brackets what if i get a bigger piece of sheet aluminum and cut out extension like the two out of the rallitek coming out of the bottom and far right that will screw onto the frame somewhere between points A and C.


feedback please.

thats what i was thinking about when i looked at your original idea....i was gonna say something about putting extension tabs from the frame to meet up with the plate, but you thought of it first. go with that idea. just make em strong...

[overtheover]

take your plastic POS off and use it as a template, i plan on doing this one day, when i get a minute...

[nordicskiah]

There are 5.5 inches coming out of the left to protect the alternator.

Every time you use inches in a design, god destroys a space shuttle.
Every time you masturbate, god kills a kitten.

[ten80]

I just got a crazy idea after looking at this.

Instead of fabing brackets what if i get a bigger piece of sheet aluminum and cut out extension like the two out of the rallitek coming out of the bottom and far right that will screw onto the frame somewhere between points A and C.


feedback please.

It will likely be significantly cheaper to buy a smaller sheet of aluminum, then bolt-on or have a shop weld-on the brackets. That way, you don't waste a bunch of aluminum and getting the fit correct will be easier. Don't forget to give the front of the skid plate a nicely sloped lip so that junk gets pushed under the skid plate, rather then getting caught on the leading edge. If I understand your diagram, you have planned for a 1.5" rear lip. You may have to cut a slot in this lip to clear your exhaust piping if it hangs lower than the subframe.

If you have a local bike shop, ask them for bike box (or steal one from their dumpster), and use it to make a full-size template. That way you can experiment with fitment, bends, and clearance.

Git er done!

[munozppk]

The 1.5 inch part is meant to be the front sloped lip.

[ten80]

Ack! I was looking at it upside-down. Makes much more sense now. Putting a lip on the back might also be a good idea.

[BtihellWagon]

Hey P
$157 is a little steep for a piece of 3/16 x 48"x 48"aluminum. $1.07 a pound for aluminum and $3.13 for copper. At 42.41 pounds $45.38 is sellers price even at 100% mark up it`s still a bit high, unless it`s cut and bent then that would be a good price .

http://www.principalmetals.com/utilities/primecalculator.htm

MetalPrices.com http://www.metalprices.com/images/wireUR.jpg LB (http://www.metalprices.com/#) KG (http://www.metalprices.com/#) MT (http://www.metalprices.com/#) USD/LBCash3m15mAluminum1.07001.08911.1376Alum Alloy1.03241.04781.0954NA Alloy1.02061.04101.0977Copper3.13893.10713.0232 USD/MTCash3m15mAluminum2359.02401.02508.0Alum Alloy2276.02310.02415.0NA Alloy2250.02295.02420.0Copper6920.06850.06665.0 USD/KGCash3m15mAluminum2.3592.4012.508Alum Alloy2.2762.3102.415NA Alloy2.2502.2952.420Copper6.9206.8506.665GBP: 0.5122 EUR: 0.6896

[BtihellWagon]

you said 6061, right?

[munozppk]

6061 is it. and I decided to go with 1/8 thick.

[aerioAWD]

I am making a custom skid plate for my Suzuki as well. I bought 36"x37" 5052 32H .125 thickness aluminum sheet for $62 shipped. The only issues I am having is that I need to bend it maybe 20 degrees but not sure where to look or ask for a bending machine. However, I purchased a bending brake from eBay but I don't know how to use it.

[munozppk]

I am making a custom skid plate for my Suzuki as well. I bought 36"x37" 5052 32H .125 thickness aluminum sheet for $62 shipped. The only issues I am having is that I need to bend it maybe 20 degrees but not sure where to look or ask for a bending machine. However, I purchased a bending brake from eBay but I don't know how to use it.


It shouldnt be that hard to use. do you have a picture of it? where are you located?

What are the characteristics of 5052 32H? Like weight and durability.

[aerioAWD]

It shouldnt be that hard to use. do you have a picture of it? where are you located?

What are the characteristics of 5052 32H? Like weight and durability.


Yeah I'll take a picture tomorrow. 5052 weighs about 15lbs, not light but not to heavy. .125 is same at 1/8" thickness. I am located in NJ.


"5052 is the highest strength alloy of the non heat-treatable grades. Good resistance to marine atmosphere and salt water corrosion."

[ten80]

What are the characteristics of 5052 32H? Like weight and durability.

I used 5052 32H for skid plates and found it to be very hard, yet more flexible than 6061 which was much stiffer than 5052. From my experience, 5052 will bend or spring back from a big blow whereas 6061 sometimes gets stress marks and cracks. 6061 also can't easily be bent past 90 degrees without cracking. For these reasons, I prefer 5052 for 1/8" skid plates, not to mention that it is cheaper than 6061. Weight is essentially the same for either, about 12lbs for a 24x36" sheet.

[munozppk]

sweet! maybe ill just get that kind becuase money is tight right now.

[aerioAWD]

sweet! maybe ill just get that kind because money is tight right now.


Order from here: http://www.cutsmetal.net/

They are friendly and have good pricing on aluminum. They custom cut my piece. It was a little bit dirty, stain, and scratched, but hey its going under the car so it doesn't matter.

Also, for those how have skid plates, does dirt, sand, soil, etc get stuck up there? If so, when moving does it exit out the back? Don't want to run into problems. Also, are there heating issues at all? I know heat rises so I don't think that would matter.

[ten80]

I get no dirt on top of my skid plate, but I was careful to make a big front lip so that everthing I drive over goes under the skid plate. The engine bay does get hotter in the summer. I've recorded temperatures in excess of 150 degrees F on a 90 degree day while stopped at a light. Hasn't caused me any issues, but I can feel the effects of heat soak. Once you get moving again, air passes through the engine bay and things cool down.

I'm glad cutsmetal gave you a good price. I know the guy who runs the business and he was of great help in my skid plate adventures. He can also custom bend pieces before shipping.

[PSG STI]

Order from here: http://www.cutsmetal.net/

They are friendly and have good pricing on aluminum. They custom cut my piece. It was a little bit dirty, stain, and scratched, but hey its going under the car so it doesn't matter.

Also, for those how have skid plates, does dirt, sand, soil, etc get stuck up there? If so, when moving does it exit out the back? Don't want to run into problems. Also, are there heating issues at all? I know heat rises so I don't think that would matter.

I've know a few people who have gotten dirt and debris stuck between their skidplate and the oil pan, and during a rallycross that stuff sometimes tends to get compacted and during an impact can cause the oil pan to crack! Just make sure when you're designing your plate that you provide sufficient clearance for the dirt to move around and you should be fine.

I've had no heating issues with my car, and I've had my skidplate on for about the last year and a half. Hope this helps!

- Matt

[aerioAWD]

Thank you all for the information. I will have about 1.5" clearance between skid plate and oil pan. The only part that will be close to skid plate is the exhaust down pipe. But lucky me its only a heat shield that will be close.

[PSG STI]

You should have no problems then... the only thing I'm concerned with is that you're using a 1/8" thickness, which will be considerably less stiff than a 3/16". We've used similar grade aluminum that you're considering (marine grade, not 6061), and I always recommend a 1/8" thickness for street use only, not for rallycross.

- Matt

[munozppk]

You should have no problems then... the only thing I'm concerned with is that you're using a 1/8" thickness, which will be considerably less stiff than a 3/16". We've used similar grade aluminum that you're considering (marine grade, not 6061), and I always recommend a 1/8" thickness for street use only, not for rallycross.

- Matt


I always thought 1/8" was for rallycross and anything thicker was used for stage rally. But I guess its better to be safe than sorry.

[PSG STI]

I guess it's somewhat dependant on what kind of surface you're running on. We had some guys at our rallycross last year use a 1/8" plate no problem, and if it's just smooth dirt you should be all set. But all it takes is that one rock to ruin your day, and IMO it's always to be better safe than sorry!

- Matt

[kreitz3]

I guess it's somewhat dependant on what kind of surface you're running on. We had some guys at our rallycross last year use a 1/8" plate no problem, and if it's just smooth dirt you should be all set. But all it takes is that one rock to ruin your day, and IMO it's always to be better safe than sorry!

- Matt

I agree. I have a 3/32" plate on my RallyX/DD.

[aerioAWD]

Well here is my finished product.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2187/2221525840_f0da3df313_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2012/2221525580_d3dc1c72fc_b.jpg

[MetalNeverDies]

sweet man!

[munozppk]

That looks good. I only wish I had some frame in the front to screw the plate onto.

[Josh B]

do you have a problem with sand/gravel/mud building up inside the skid plate?

[kevinG]

you should make another extension at the front so it goes inside the bottom of your bumper...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/r33owner/undertray002.jpg

[UP2MTNS]

interesting......now go test it! :D

[nordicskiah]

i might have missed this but what was the total cost and total work time?

[aerioAWD]

i might have missed this but what was the total cost and total work time?

For me it took about 2 hours. Sheet cost me $62 and the rest I used sledge hammer to bend it and bought some bolts at home depot and used stock bolts in the front.

[Drew84]

hmm I was just thinking to myself "how should I make a skid plate for the Rally mirage?" and then I found this thread. The Mirage doesn't even have stock plastic ones so I defiantly have to add one before Belmont. This is the way I was thinking of doing it I like their Idea about mounting it. http://rumblesoftracing.com/index.php?s=weld I want to make brackets to mount to the subframe that will then hold the skid plate. BTW they're plate is very expensive. Where are you guys getting the 6061? its very expensive.

[ten80]

As we discussed earlier, 5052 H32 should be sufficient for 1/8" thickness because it's more resilent and flexible than 6061. For 3/8", 6061 is stronger, but much more expensive. Contact Scott http://www.cutsmetal.net/ and see what price he can do, aerioawd bought his aluminum from him.

[JeffS]

FYI for any Sacramento area people who are looking into DIY skidplates. I just got an over the phone price of ~$40 for a 36"x30" sheet of 1/8" 5052 aluminum from Metal Craft Warehouse (http://www.metalcraftwarehouse.com/). This is about as low a price as I have seen.

I am going to try and get a skidplate put together this weekend. I will post some pics if it works out.

[snowflow mfg]

How would a skid plate affect my oil changing ability? would I have to remove it everytime I change my oil? or is it possible to have some decent access hole without compromising strength/function?

[Blix666]

i don't believe the access panels are worth it. it's easy enough to take on and off. it adds literally about 1 minute to my oil change, and that's just on ramps, not on a lift.

[Galen]

ya, i didnt want my plate to have holes in it
(could get snagged exc...) and its only 4 bolts to get it off...

[snowflow mfg]

you should make another extension at the front so it goes inside the bottom of your bumper...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/r33owner/undertray002.jpg

This one looks good. Who makes it?

[Draco-REX]

This one looks good. Who makes it?
Beatrush, but if you look at the hole for the jacking plate, you can see that it's really thin. I really recomment primitive racing plates. They're strong enough they dont' need an opening for the jacking plate, just lift the car by the skidplate.

[BlackParis]

Beatrush, but if you look at the hole for the jacking plate, you can see that it's really thin. I really recomment primitive racing plates. They're strong enough they dont' need an opening for the jacking plate, just lift the car by the skidplate.

I also dont think the beatrush is bent up in the back, so It can snag when backing up... it is designated as an Areo-dynamic, track purpose skid plate, not an all out rally skidplate...

See how the lip flattens back out for the rear bolt holes... then it looks like it curves down? not up?

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/r33owner/Underpanel.jpg

and this is what kevings' beatrush plate looks like now....

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/r33owner/undertray-1.jpg

[my01rs-t]

Beatrush, but if you look at the hole for the jacking plate, you can see that it's really thin. I really recomment primitive racing plates. They're strong enough they dont' need an opening for the jacking plate, just lift the car by the skidplate.

Word , if you can't lift the car with it then how are you gonna lift the car with a rock without wrecking things?

[snowflow mfg]

Beatrush, but if you look at the hole for the jacking plate, you can see that it's really thin. I really recomment primitive racing plates. They're strong enough they dont' need an opening for the jacking plate, just lift the car by the skidplate.

that's what I was just looking at. I'll see if making my own or buying that one would be cheaper.

if I did get the primitive one, I would go for the thinner one, not the 3/16ths. I'm not super excited about adding 20lbs to the front end lol.

i'm not super concerned about being able to jack it up, because I usually use the side rails.

[overtheover]

heres mine
3/16ths alum
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/xthankxyou/DSC_0073.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v417/xthankxyou/?action=view&current=DSC_0073.jpg)
tucks under the edge of my bumper poifectly

[snowflow mfg]

nice job.
how much did it cost total? and do you wanna make me one? lol

[BlackParis]

heres mine
3/16ths alum
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/xthankxyou/DSC_0073.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v417/xthankxyou/?action=view&current=DSC_0073.jpg)
tucks under the edge of my bumper poifectly


Thats what I need to build.... My bumper is sooo busted... it needs some upport to hold it on :-P

[WayBack]

The ongoing story of my skidplate:

The OE plastic sump guard. This is the las that anyone saw of it....
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/4536/oldrd6.jpg

So, back to the lab. A couple years back, I made a skidplate for our Mazda6 out of an old aluminum construction-hole cover that I picked up for $20. It ended up being a big plate, but I had leftovers... just enough for the WayBack. It is diamond plate, but the opposite side is smooth.
First step, though, is cardboard:
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/9781/cbln8.jpg
Very light, easy to work with, rigid enough to suspend itself. Makes for an ideal stencil:
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/1074/stencilio8.jpg
(also pictured, the Mazda6 skidplate)

The next step is the cutting, which I am putting off. Why? Have a look:
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/5601/thksdz6.jpg
About 1/4 inch thick. The Mazda's plate needed to have a slight curvature to it, so I propped the leading edge up on a 4x4 block of wood and drove an 8,000lb forklift onto the aluminum. It was barely depressed by the forklift, and then sprung back a bit. I am not looking forward to cutting through this thing again, I know it'll cost me 5 blades, but it'll survive the apocalypse. Trade off.

More as it develops.

You guys have some good ideas for your plates, but I'd like to add a bit of experience.
-Shearing bolts. The two that are back by the jack points are the lowest point of the plate. If you actually do drag your plate over a rock, those things are gone. If you're lucky, they'll be sheared off. If you're like me, they'll get bent up and require cutting/drilling.
The remedy for this? I'm going to put a block of aluminum in front of the bolts. The block will be threaded, and bolted to the plate from behind (protecting it's own bolts). Ideally, you'd want to weld it, but I haven't got a MIG for aluminum. I'll probably take my grinder to it and taper th eleading edge, too.

The bolts holding the front of the plate on, I'm not worried about. Anything that gets to them will rip off my front valance. Once I've got a light bar, I'll integrate some 1/8 sheet to the bottom of it that will join it to the skid plate. Think of it like a chin guard to go with my throat guard. I may also extent a bit back to cover the Y pipe, I can see that being a hook point for a root or rock.

[munozppk]

Wayback: are you currently making a Skid plate for your 6?

I need to make one for my 3, the reason why I started this thread, but I have solid parts in the front to screw the front the plate. Does the 6 have anything?

[WayBack]

It's been a year since I've bolted it up, but it does have soem solid points. IIRC, I used 4 "studs" that I made by through-bolting some underbody gussets. You can see the 4 holes int he plate above. It worked great and took some big hits, but it does contact soemthing under the car, It hink the oil pan, which is bad. That's why I needed the forklift to ark it.

See if you can get/post a good pic of your lower H member, making a plate is surprisingly easy.

[WayBack]

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/3168/plateeg8.jpg

I can jack the car up from any point on this thing, no flex. Indestructible. :D

[overtheover]

^^too heavy

[WayBack]

^^too heavyPerhaps, if you're a pussy. :tongue:
It weighs double what the 1/8" primitive weighs, and only 25% more than the 3/16"... yet offers probably 4x the protection. The beauty of 5000 series aluminum; Jack up your car like this using your "light" aftermarket skidplate

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/9476/jackup0.jpg
No, it's not under anything solid, just the plate.
Afterwards, not a scratch:
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/769/aftervt0.jpg

I like heavy.:muhaha:

[aerioAWD]

Nice job on the creation. Looks very beefy. I only made 1/8 and I saw 1 dent in it but other than that it keeps rocks away from engine.

[Hairy Sheep]

how much did that metal cost? it looks nice and seems really tough.
i think i am going to make mine out of 1/8" steel, just because i can get it for like $5 and it should be stronger than any 1/8" aluminum i would think

[aerioAWD]

how much did that metal cost? it looks nice and seems really tough.
i think i am going to make mine out of 1/8" steel, just because i can get it for like $5 and it should be stronger than any 1/8" aluminum i would think

Really? Can you help me get it as well for 5 bucks?

[Hairy Sheep]

im not really sure on the price, it might be a bit more than that but i know the place is the cheapest ive seen. a friend of mine got a few hundred pounds of steel for $130

i will look into it and tell you when i find a price

[WayBack]

how much did that metal cost? it looks nice and seems really tough.
i think i am going to make mine out of 1/8" steel, just because i can get it for like $5 and it should be stronger than any 1/8" aluminum i would think
$20, but I got it from a construction company @ less than scrap prices. If you were to buy it new, the 4'x4' sheet I got would be over $150, possibly by ALLOT for this grade.

It was basically a portable man-hole cover. If you look for things that are *made of* the material you want, you can often find deals much cheaper than buying just the material. IIRC Dock Plates are made of the same stuff, possibly thicker.

[twohlix]

i think i am going to make mine out of 1/8" steel, just because i can get it for like $5 and it should be stronger than any 1/8" aluminum i would think
There are benefits to aluminum for plating, it'll deform before it cracks which is great for catching suspension arms that come into the cockpit of an FSAE car. The fact RIT used aluminum plating on the side of their FSAE car probably saved that driver a lot of pain and suffering.

[Galen]

Jack up your car like this using your "light" aftermarket skidplate




not to burst any bubbles (because i think your set up is badass and cost effective) but i jacked my car up from my 3/16in primitive front skid plate yesterday. works like a charm.

[Galen]

than again, i guess 3/16in isnt that light...

[WayBack]

not to burst any bubbles (because i think your set up is badass and cost effective) but i jacked my car up from my 1/8in primitive front skid plate yesterday. works like a charm. pics? :headbang:I will confess, I was constantly peering above watching the deflection, to make sure it wasn't touching my oil pan. Big no no. lol

[Galen]

hah, i can take some tomorrow if you like.

[Galen]

pics? :headbang:I will confess, I was constantly peering above watching the deflection, to make sure it wasn't touching my oil pan. Big no no. lol

sorry, i totally ment 3/16 plate. lol, im a metric kind of guy. Fractions make my head hurt. non the less:

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f377/ghuntsman/_MG_3890.jpg

[Galen]

sry for the sh!ty pic.

[snowflow mfg]

rallitek has an aluminum one for $180 or so bucks.
I wonder how that would hold up.
i'm still on the hunt for some cheap aliminum

[WayBack]

rallitek has an aluminum one for $180 or so bucks.
I wonder how that would hold up.
i'm still on the hunt for some cheap aliminum
Junkyard or salvage lot, go get dirty. ;)

[WayBack]

sorry, i totally ment 3/16 plate. lol, im a metric kind of guy. Fractions make my head hurt. non the less:

Hey wait a minute, you're jack is onder the rear crossmember. :tongue:

[Galen]

yah, i need it there so that those little bolts hook onto the jack so that the jack dosnt slide out from under the car when only the front is in the air. and its the strongest place so why the f*** not!! lol.

[DR1665]

Just as an option for rally-x skid plates. Since they don't take nearly the abuse that stage rally plates get, it doesn't necessarily need to be heavy super-duty aluminum. For example, the skid plate on my GVR4 is made from the floor of an abandoned truck bed liner. Heavy duty corrugated plastic. We used a sawzall to cut it to shape, then used a couple of sections of small diameter electrical conduit (from Home Depot, imo) to secure it.


There are two ~8" long sections of the conduit (herein called pipe) bolted to the bottom of the car on either side of the prop shaft. Holes were drilled in one side of the pipe so that we could get the drill/driver bit and a self-tapping screw inside. These are aligned parallel to the prop shaft.

The trailing end of the skid plate has two similar pieces of pipe extending from it. These are a smaller diameter than the two on the chassis. This allows me to simply slide the skid plate into the two pipes at the rear before securing at the front.

As for the front, we ran a length of the smaller conduit through the tow loops at the front of the car. Cut to length so that about an inch extended through each tow loop. Then the skid plate was secured to this conduit with screws through from the bottom in the recesses of the plate. Finally, we drilled small holes in each end of the front lateral pipe for cotter pins.

To remove the plate, I pull the cotter pins, slide the skid plate to one side or the other, then pull straight out from under the car. Takes about 30 seconds.

Obviously, this is not going to cut it for stage use, but it's more than adequate for rally-x and the odd pre-run. The skid plate needs to be tough, but it also needs to be resilient so that impacts are not fully transmitted to the mounting points, resulting in ancillary damage.

I'd post pictures, but I haven't got any handy. Just thought this might be something someone here would find interesting. I don't imagine a truck bed liner would be too pricey from, say, a junkyard or the like. Bargain protection, imo.