would this work? - wiring diagram for lights

[RS MN]

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a205/joey55082/hellawiringdiagram.jpg

and i forgot to put the switches on the diagram, they're the little black dots.
i know its crappy, but im not the best with Mac Paintbrush.
let me know please :D

[cszink]

Well hell, work blocked the picture. Upload it as an attachment.

[RS MN]

attatched.

[cszink]

Looks alright to me...

[RS MN]

awesome.
i think i might wire them to my parking lights power switch on the steering column too so they will automatically turn on and off when i turn the headlights on and off, and if i want them on without the headlights i just flip the parking lights switch.

[Jard]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841267&highlight=Relays

Take a look at that thread. I'm planning to eventually do the same thing but I would use relays. The relays will let you run smaller wires in the car's interior to your switches.

[nkx]

+1 to relays. they make the wiring a little bit more complicated until you understand exactly what youre looking at, but its cheap insurance. im not a fan of having large gauge, highly powered wires running into the cabin of the car.

[573]

Looks fine, but you're going to want relays, and each pair of light will only need one inline fuse(before the relay).

Also, when you said connect them to the head lights, do you mean high beams? Running these whenever your headlights are on would be dangerous, as you'd blind other motorists. However, using the high beams to trigger the relay would be fine.

[RS MN]

i understand whats going on with the relay and what all the wires are doing, but right now, i dont have a job, so im just going as cheap and simple as possible, once i get a job, they will be rewired again with relays.

thanks for all the info guys.

[RS MN]

Looks fine, but you're going to want relays, and each pair of light will only need one inline fuse(before the relay).

Also, when you said connect them to the head lights, do you mean high beams? Running these whenever your headlights are on would be dangerous, as you'd blind other motorists. However, using the high beams to trigger the relay would be fine.

i wouldnt have these connected to the headlights.
i dont want them connected to my headlights at all, i will be connecting them to my parking lights (with switches too of course) so they can work independently of the headlights just by flipping the parking light switch on the top of the steering column.

[UP2MTNS]

i understand whats going on with the relay and what all the wires are doing, but right now, i dont have a job, so im just going as cheap and simple as possible, once i get a job, they will be rewired again with relays.

thanks for all the info guys.


no offense, but if you don't have a job and can't afford 2 $5 relays, what are you doing w/4 hella 500's plus I assume some custom/aftermarket light bar?

do it right, spend another $10. And you don't need 2 inline fuses the way you currently have it wired up.

and according to you diagram, you've got your switches grounded? ....ummm, don't do that (unless they're those cool 'lighted' switches).

[ricetiva]

hey for some reason if you dont have them wired by the time you come down on the 20th, i will have some relays you can have to get that done right.

[kurt.]

I would add that if you're tapping into an existing power source, ie parking lights, you should run the pos directly to the lights. That circuit already has a fuse in the stock fusebox, so you don't "have to" run an inline fuse. Then, run the ground for the lights to the switch and then to ground. This will reduce a positively chrged wire in the passenger compartment. Actually, it might blow the stock fuse with that power supply as it would be pulling much more current than the stock fuse is rated for.

But, one of the problems with not running a relay is that the current for the lights is running through your switch and unless you have an high amp (more expensive) switch, it will burn it. It's cheaper to just do the relays.

If I was on a tight budget and wanted to do a little project like this, I would head to the junkyard and get a pocketful of relays and fuses for the couple bucks they charge to get in.. ;)

-Kurt

[RS MN]

no offense, but if you don't have a job and can't afford 2 $5 relays, what are you doing w/4 hella 500's plus I assume some custom/aftermarket light bar?

do it right, spend another $10. And you don't need 2 inline fuses the way you currently have it wired up.

and according to you diagram, you've got your switches grounded? ....ummm, don't do that (unless they're those cool 'lighted' switches).

because ive had two lights and the bar already, and will be trying to get 2 more around christmas time, or when i get a job.
also, where would you put the inline fuse then, just between the switch and the lights?
and thanks to ricetiva now, i will have relays :D
and currently i have 3 or 4 lighted switches sitting at my house from when i had was helping a buddy wire up some LEDs in his monte carlo haha, but those switches wouldnt have been strong enough for my plan anyways i guess.

and kurt, thank you for those ideas! i guess i might be getting some relays from ricetiva next friday at the meet. and blowing a fuse in the parking lights power source was my biggest issue with wiring it through there.


and ricetiva, i would love that man, much appreciated.......again!

[409industries]

My recommendations.

1) Use at least one relay. This keeps your hot wires out of the cabin. Only switched power will be inside the car. I'd probably run two relays, just pair up the lights.
2) Inline fuse between the battery and the relay(s) 30A should be fine.
3) Wire the AUX lights into your high beams switch. If you're running all those lights, you'll want your high beams on anyway. This is actually a rule in i believe NASA rallysport.

Check out my complete wiring setup here:

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showpost.php?p=150308&postcount=838

[RS MN]

thank you very much aaron, i think my relay got screwed up because it was under the battery side hood vent while raining, and my vent covers went missing.
but i cannot find the relay block or fuse block on rallylights.com does anyone else know where i could find blocks like those?
i really like that they are covered so they dont get wet.

thanks again aaron!

[UP2MTNS]

because ive had two lights and the bar already, and will be trying to get 2 more around christmas time, or when i get a job.
also, where would you put the inline fuse then, just between the switch and the lights?
and thanks to ricetiva now, i will have relays :D
and currently i have 3 or 4 lighted switches sitting at my house from when i had was helping a buddy wire up some LEDs in his monte carlo haha, but those switches wouldnt have been strong enough for my plan anyways i guess.

and kurt, thank you for those ideas! i guess i might be getting some relays from ricetiva next friday at the meet. and blowing a fuse in the parking lights power source was my biggest issue with wiring it through there.


and ricetiva, i would love that man, much appreciated.......again!

just giving you sh1t ;)


so, now that you have relays....find some 12v power in your cabin...that'll already have an OEM fuse associated w/it so that takes care of that....go from there, to your switch, then out the firewall (there's a hole underneath your pedals, remove the rubber grommet) and that goes out to your relay. Where you want the in-line fuse is from the 12v batter to your relay. Then you're all set to go from the relay to your lights.

If you don't already, use the B1 relay that you see on the rallylights.com site...that'll allow you to power 2 lights direction w/o having to splice any wires and minimize power loss to the lights. 2 of those will put full power to 4 lights.

they're also known as the KC3300 relay, which I last got on Amazon.com for $6 each.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MAE0M



Considering your budget, I would just use a cheap inline fuse, like this:
http://www.pcsconnectors.com/HHC.aspx

little more pricey, but waterproof:
http://www.pcsconnectors.com/PCS-630-FUSE.aspx

and if you want to really get into credit card debt, I have this fancy fuse block that works nice....I have room for it though because I moved my battery.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html
(4th one down)


I haven't looked at Aaron's project recently, but I bet his is very similar to what I just wrote.


OH, and if you want to wire it up to your high beams, that's a bit trickier because of the whole +/- voltage crap that goes to your lights. Not sure how Aaron did it, but I used a 3rd 'reverse' relay (its 'open/off' when it has 12v, and 'closed/on' when there's no voltage to it) and tapped into the wires directly at my headlights. When the high beams on, one wire goes to 0V, and that flips the 3rd reverse relay puts 12 volts to the lights relay and turns on the aux lights. I have no aux wires going into my car this way, but it does add 1 more piece of electronics that can potentially break on stage.

[RS MN]

awesome man, thanks so much!
and i found some inline fuse blocks at walmart that will hold 30amp fuses.
and i think the relays are the hella 500 kit relays so they should work.

ill let you know how it works out in a couple weeks when i get the relays :D
thanks again man.

[UP2MTNS]

NP.....so I just looked at Aaron's link....your setup is much cleaner than mine, where DID you get that fuse block and what relays are those?


weatherpak connectors FTW.

[RS MN]

i wish i could afford those right now.

and yes aaron, that is an extremely clean setup!