Best way to replace the clutch?

[AmsOil]

Well, my clutch has decided make its way to be needing replaced, pulling people out of the beach at 90k miles probably didnt help, but I got to do some good for someone, so its cool. I have decided to go with the Spec stage 1 nothing special organic clutch (holds 410 ft-lbs) and a Fidanza alum. flywheel.

My main question is, what is the easiest way to replace the clutch in a 04 WRX 5mt? I have heard about pulling the motor foreward, or just pulling the trans out, and even pulling the motor out. If this was in my chevy I would just pull the motor as it takes about 30 minutes, but I have never had to do a clutch in an impreza before. I have done some motors in wrx/sti's, but never a trans/clutch.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated, as always! Thanks guys,

Kyle

[97ScoobyL]

When i did mine in my legacy i pulled the trans, after that experience i think id rather just pull the motor.

[ZED E85]

I've always just pulled the transmission...it doesn't need to come all the way out, you just need to disconnect the drive shafts and slide it backwards about 6". The best way I've found to put it back in is to get a friend and both get under the car and bench press it back into place.

[HeathyVT]

I was a loser and paid to have mine done on the legacy. If I was to do it i'd pull the motor if I didn't have access to a lift, if there was access to a lift then I'd drop the tranny. It cost me $720 to get a basic clutch and fly wheel replacement done at a reputable shop. I don't think I will ever pay any one that much to do a clutch again.... I could have bought a engine host and parts for alot less..... I can be done with by pulling the motor forward.

[KevinWelker]

well, I know the best way is NOT during an overnight service, in the 50 degree rain, with mud everywhere and a veritable river flowing through the service area.

I would just drop the driveshaft, pull the transmission back and do it that way, doesn't really take long at all. The truck type taller jackstands at a minimum are required, proper pin type jackstands are even better.

[bue car]

I just did this. Pull the propeller shaft off, put a jack on the tranny, remove the crossmember. disconnect tranny, slide back. use a extended socket to put in the flywheel hole and prop a long braker bar on the floor, to jam the fly wheel. a person may want to hold the bar steady.

[AmsOil]

i do have access to a lift, so i am sure i will most likely pull the trans, my friend also bought me a front h-brace, header and up pipe yesterday, so i am sure we will do all that at the same time too. thanks for the help guys, and always willing to take more suggestions too. i will document my progress and try and do a write up on it and post it in the diy section. i have pics from when i washed my factory seat covers and di a write up on that as well.

[bue car]

The motor will tilt forward when you remove the transmission. I did not have to take to motor off the mounts at all, or loosen them for that fact. you can unscrew the pitch stop to move the motor a few more inches.

[Look-A-Subie]

Oh, kyle. Bring beer.

[AmsOil]

Oh, kyle. Bring beer.

Already on top of it! BTW, starting this morning, hope the flywheel gets here today!

[bue car]

let me know if you need assistance, you can pm me to call me for tips :)

I am trying to be an aspiring mechanic.

[KevinWelker]

YES!! that is commitment, take the car apart before the parts arrive!! I don't have that much faith in UPS/FEDEX/USPS but I'm glad you have beer, you're gonna need it one way or the other!

[Look-A-Subie]

We got it about 2/3 of the way apart before my dad called saying a bunch of packages showed up at the house lol. Right now it's about 1/3 of the way back together after we ran into some fitment issues with the new header.

[saturn]

when I did it I just pulled the motor.

think about it:

unless you have a lift and a transmission jack (I didn't), you'll be bench pressing the transmission (it's not very light)... so even if you're strong, that's not very safe!

then the "tilt the engine forward..." well... let's just say I hope you have tiny hands? that only gives you about 2" of clearance without removing the radiator... and if you're going to unbolt the engine and remove the radiator... might as well remove the engine.

also have a friend help.

[bue car]

when I did it I just pulled the motor.

think about it:

unless you have a lift and a transmission jack (I didn't), you'll be bench pressing the transmission (it's not very light)... so even if you're strong, that's not very safe!

its only about 115 pounds dry, and a regular jack with a large face works fine :headbang:

then the "tilt the engine forward..." well... let's just say I hope you have tiny hands? that only gives you about 2" of clearance without removing the radiator... and if you're going to unbolt the engine and remove the radiator... might as well remove the engine.

also have a friend help.

why do you need to get in front of the motor? pulling the motor is so much more work and time. :unamused:

[AmsOil]

Like Look-A-Subie said, we got about 1/3 the way back together, DOES ANYONE KNOW THE PROPER TORQUE SPECS FOR A 2004 WRX Flexplate to Flywheel bolts?????

[ZED E85]

Are you talking about the pressure plate? 11.8 ft/lbs

[bue car]

and the flywheel is 58 lb