Seat Mounting Options [Archive] - DirtyImpreza Forums

UP2MTNS

07-14-2009, 12:50 PM

So I was going to PM this question to Kyle at JR, but I figured we could all learn from it.

My initial plan was to copy with Keith and Kyle did at Jackson rally, but after talked to them about it at Idaho Rally, I think I'm way over my head even though it doesn't look too bad. (When Kyle Jackson says its hard to do, you better listen.)

So anyway, with 12 hours to think about it on the way back from ID, here's how I want to simplify it:
____________________

I'm making my own brackets...just some 3/16" thick aluminum...bought some flat plate and some angle (1"x1"). will drill, bolt that together and cut out the bracket and drill some holes for seat mounting options.

Anyway...what if I just mount the brackets to the floor? Weld in four 2"x2" plates for bolt reinforcements. The plate for the brackets are 6" wide (high), so that should be high enough for the seats.

Any drawbacks or something I'm not thinking of? Should be legal, yes?

I guess my only concern is now the bolts are sticking out the bottom of the car...but they'll be covered by the UHMW-PE I've got down there.

The benefit is this is MUCH easier, and I can have both my seats mounted by the end of the week, before I even start the cage.

TIA

409industries

07-14-2009, 01:01 PM

The route we're going to go with my car is have JR make an "adaptor" to mount into the OEM provided holes. This adaptor will then bolt onto the aluminum or steel seat brackets, which will then be attached to the seat itself.

From what i understand, making completely new seat bars for things to bolt onto was a royal PITA.

I'm sure if you're willing to shell out the cash, Kyle can build it anyway you want it. :)

Rallycat66

07-14-2009, 01:23 PM

One drawback to bolting directly to the floor is that if anything hits the floor pan from below (and it will regularly), you are going to feel it in the seat.

Typically, the mounting for the seats is up off the floor pan a little to avoid that.

UP2MTNS

07-14-2009, 01:42 PM

I'm sure if you're willing to shell out the cash, Kyle can build it anyway you want it. :)

actually, Kyle said he'd never do that again even if someone were to pay him. :shock:

That was the red flag to me that maybe I should do something different.

and....on the passenger side at least, I've already removed the stock mounting points up front....I went a little crazy w/the rotabroach a few weeks ago...so I need to do something custom no matter what.

One drawback to bolting directly to the floor is that if anything hits the floor pan from below (and it will regularly), you are going to feel it in the seat.

Typically, the mounting for the seats is up off the floor pan a little to avoid that.good point.

for the 4 mounting points, I could use thicker plate which would raise the bracket off the floor, and then there's only those 4 points directly touching, that could help.

I was also thinking about trying to do something with some bushings where the seat mounts to the bracket, but not sure.

409industries

07-14-2009, 02:02 PM

actually, Kyle said he'd never do that again even if someone were to pay him. :shock:

Everyone has their price!

Daniel B

07-14-2009, 02:49 PM

Those floorboards are pretty thin. I'd be MOST worried about landing on something after a jump. A very important thing to consider is how you will get your seat level. If you are crooked you will certainly be uncomfortable. Think about what happens when you hit a large rock and tweak your seat mount a bit, you'll be sitting crooked. I race with somebody who likes to cut ditches, he straightens his floorboeard with a 5lb sledge after almost every race.

I'm not sure what it is that Kyle does - I'm assuming it's the standard design, run two tubes between the rocker and the transmission tunnel... If that's the case, why don't you do the mockup of all the materials and then just get him to weld it into place? It is a huge hassle if you need the tubing mounted to any of the curvy areas on the transmission tunnel. fitting the plates flush is a heck of a chore. But it's proven safe! If you go this route, make sure you read the section in the FIA 253 document (for an RA logbook at least) they are now specifying a "U" shape for the tube so the seat brackets fit flush.

Good luck.

UP2MTNS

07-14-2009, 07:33 PM

welding is the easy part....getting it all to fit right/level is the tricky part.

JacksonRally

07-15-2009, 09:53 AM

I would like to add to the "U'' shape design. Well pretty much this is a great idea and wish I would have done this in my brothers car. IMO the U needs to be welded to the sill bar this way in a side impact the entire seat mounts/seat/occupant move with the hit. The way the mounts are stock, or tubed from the factory sill to the trans tunnel will not move and any impact can have a greater effect on the occupant if the occupant (seat/mounts) don't move with the cage/door bars. I know that 99.9% of the cars out there don't tie the seat bracket into the cage but its good to learn from out mistakes.

UP2MTNS

07-15-2009, 10:15 AM

carl

07-15-2009, 10:20 AM

this pic shows what is done in our car - pretty basic. re-use the front points and weld a square tube to some plates across the back

http://www.sieglerphoto.com/photos/421926682_umYWa-L.jpg

JacksonRally

07-15-2009, 10:32 AM

Carl I still don't know how you got away with out sill bars :crazy:

carl

07-15-2009, 10:41 AM

i'll have to dig through it but the way its worded makes them optional. the guy who writes the RA rulebook logbooked it himself

JacksonRally

07-15-2009, 10:52 AM

i'll have to dig through it but the way its worded makes them optional. the guy who writes the RA rulebook logbooked it himself

Yeah I remember you telling me this awhile back. Still makes me :crazy: when one guy says one thing and another guy says something different (scrutineers).

Daniel B

07-15-2009, 11:10 AM

If I remember right, RA follows FIA article 253. I don't see anything that says you need a sil bar:

8.3.2.1.2 Doorbars :
One or more longitudinal members must be fitted at each side of
the vehicle according to Drawings 253-8, 253-9, 253-10 and 253-
11 (Drawings 253-9, 253-10 and 253-11 for cars homologated as
from 01.01.2007).
They may be removable.
The side protection must be as high as possible, but its upper
attachment point must not be higher than half the height of the
door opening measured from its base.
If these upper attachment points are located in front of or behind
the door opening, this height limitation is also valid for the
corresponding intersection of the strut and the door opening.
In the case of doorbars in the form of an "X" (Drawing 253-9), it is
recommended that the lower attachment points of the cross-struts
be fixed directly onto the longitudinal member of the
bodyshell/chassis and that at least one part of the "X" be a singlepiece
bar.
The connection of the doorbars to the windscreen pillar
reinforcement (Drawing 253-15) is authorised.

UP2MTNS

07-15-2009, 11:16 AM

sill bars are optional. X door bars are optional 2...you just need 2 bars there. So you can have a sill bar plus one door bar and that satisfies it.

I'm not putting in a sill bar. Just X's at each door.

Daniel B

07-15-2009, 11:26 AM

I'm not putting in a sill bar. Just X's at each door.

Just curious how come?

My cage builder refuses to build rally cages without them.

JacksonRally

07-15-2009, 12:10 PM

Just curious how come?

My cage builder refuses to build rally cages without them.

Well I must have mis read something thinking they were required....either way I always do them, plus they are kinda needed to mount the "u" shape seat frame to (if you go that route).

UP2MTNS

07-15-2009, 12:57 PM

Just curious how come?

My cage builder refuses to build rally cages without them.

well, they're just not required....so, wasn't planning on it.

Here's all that rally america requires for a cage...

http://www.rally-america.com/info/2008_Rollcage.gif

notice...only 2 bars at the doors....you CAN have a sill bar, and then one diagonal, or two door bars...but you don't need 2 door bars + a sill bar.

Of course, its never bad to overbuild on safety. And depending on what I end up doing with the seats, it may be easier to just stick in the sill bar, in which case...no problem, more safety FTW. now that I think about it more and more, ****, might as well just do it.

NASA actually has more requirements...I'm trying to remember, but I know off the top of my head you need at least 1 diagonal across the rear lateral supports (from the top of the b pillar to the opposite rear strut mounts). I'm putting a full 'X' there. (which then requires gussets)

since we're on the topic, I am adding more stuff like bars from the bottom of the B pillar up to the rear strut mounts....middle of the b pillar diagonally up to the top of the main hoop support, and some diagonals up front reinforcing the top A pillar junctions. oh, and a harness bar across the middle of the main hoop 'X'. Oh, and tie in the front struts for a full 8 point cage.

409industries

07-15-2009, 01:12 PM

I'm all for sill bars. They don't get in the way at all (the door bars do that) and there is a lot of strength to be gained having them there. I was not concerned about weight when the cage was built.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/project_rs/2008-11-6-finished_rollcage/finished_RS_cage_003.jpg

I was unaware of the concept of the seats moving with the cage during an impact. This makes complete sense to me, as a sideways impact would really suck to be thrown (seat and all) into the doorbars, etc.

If its not in the RA rules, i do seem to remember that NASA required a door X with one continuous beam, whereas the other axis can be two segments.

driveclimbslide

07-15-2009, 04:02 PM

Back up to the U-bars. Is the idea here to mount them to the bottom of the sill bar and plate the transmission tunnel?

JacksonRally

07-15-2009, 05:37 PM

Back up to the U-bars. Is the idea here to mount them to the bottom of the sill bar and plate the transmission tunnel?

Yep.

UP2MTNS

07-15-2009, 08:36 PM

If its not in the RA rules, i do seem to remember that NASA required a door X with one continuous beam, whereas the other axis can be two segments.

this is another major area where NASA is different from RA, yes, you need a sill bar. If you do an X-door, then yes, you still need a sill bar, but you CAN do just a sill bar and a single door bar (even at a slight diagonal to help egress).

3.7 Door Bars
One or more longitudinal members must be fitted at each side of the
vehicle in the door openings of the cage. See:
1. Figure 3.6.2-9 (2007 FIA figure 253-9); sill bar required.
2. Figure 3.6.2-10 (2007 FIA figure 253-10); sill bar
required.
3. Figure 3.6.2-11 (2007 FIA figure 253-11); sill bar not
required IF lower bar is installed as a sill bar.

(images on page 13....here: http://www.nasarallysport.com/rules-forms/2008-NASA-Rally-Sport-GRR-Appendix-B.pdf )

file:///C:/Users/JonBurke/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.jpgfile:///C:/Users/JonBurke/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.jpg

JacksonRally

07-15-2009, 11:34 PM

^^^^^lame lame lame. Why can't RA and NASA just be the F'n same? NASA log book is good for RA and RA log book is good for NASA.

Lame!!!!!!!!!!!! I will just keep on overbuilding

UP2MTNS

07-16-2009, 12:35 AM

^^I agree...especially when your scrutineer is RA and NASA.

"This cage doesn't pass NASA specs"

"OK, but how about RA?"

"ummm....yes"

"OK, then I'd like an RA log book please"

"Here you go, have fun rally'ing....OH wait....you don't have 18 coefficients...so you can only run NASA events right now"

pcowan

07-16-2009, 08:54 PM

You're the 2nd person I've heard say that now (About the seat moving in an impact), and the other guy is a NASA/RA scrutineer, so I guess that settles it.

U-channel bars it is.....

+1

Jon, you should chat with Hoche about this if you haven't yet. As has already been said, having the seats moving with the impact is vital, specifically in a side impact... see "tree" and "rock". I tend to think if it as mounting the seats to the cage vs the car.
--pete

biggreen96

07-16-2009, 11:57 PM

Are the tops of the "U" attached to the sill, and the bottom of the "U" the plate on the tunnel making a 3 point seat mount?

Daniel B

07-17-2009, 05:04 AM

Just to clarify...

There seems to be a couple ideas as to what the 'U' is. I was talking about this:

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr78/123124125/253-u.jpg

Just as a heads up of what IS required. (FIA 253 - article 16)

UP2MTNS

07-17-2009, 09:13 AM

^^ Required for what? FIA? Yes. But RA and NASA cage rules don't require this.

Daniel B

07-17-2009, 10:53 AM

^^ Required for what? FIA? Yes. But RA and NASA cage rules don't require this.

So very true!

That won't be the last time I read the rules wrong... :oops:

So what exactly is the other "U" that everyones else is talking about?

UP2MTNS

07-17-2009, 11:07 AM

So very true!

That won't be the last time I read the rules wrong... :oops:

So what exactly is the other "U" that everyones else is talking about?

I assume just normal 'channel' bar. the place I'm getting my DOM tubing from locally doesn't seem to have it, so I'm just going to get normal square tubing and use that.

Daniel B

07-17-2009, 03:17 PM

I assume just normal 'channel' bar. the place I'm getting my DOM tubing from locally doesn't seem to have it, so I'm just going to get normal square tubing and use that.

What would be the advantage to using channel bar? I assume it buckles easier than square tube.

UP2MTNS

07-17-2009, 03:19 PM

What would be the advantage to using channel bar? I assume it buckles easier than square tube.

none....you just want a flat surface to bolt your seat bracket too. So its more of an advantage over using round tubing.

u-channel vs square? tiny weight savings.

JacksonRally

07-17-2009, 05:27 PM

Jordanh

07-17-2009, 06:28 PM

IMO the mounting surface only needs to be as wide as the alum. side brackets that come with most seats.

A "U" style mount will start at the sill bar, go towards the trans tunnel, bend 90deg run along trans tunnel, bend another 90deg and land back at the sill bar makine a U shape.

do you plate and weld it to the trans tunnel also, or is the only mounting point the sill bar?

i think thats where the confusion is coming.. atleast thats what it seems.

JacksonRally

07-17-2009, 06:39 PM

Yes still needs to attach to tranny tunnel. If done properly the joints at the tranny tunnel will fail/deform allowing movement in the event of an impact.

Freeskier

07-12-2010, 02:29 PM

sorry to revive this old thread but I was wondering if anyone had done the U shape seat mounts yet, any pictures, any learnings?

Dan McGinn

07-12-2010, 06:49 PM

sorry to revive this old thread but I was wondering if anyone had done the U shape seat mounts yet, any pictures, any learnings?

+1 to that, great thread with great info, I'm redoing the brackets in my car this week/next so I would like some ideas.

spiwrx

07-12-2010, 07:28 PM

Where was this thread 2 weeks ago?? I just did mine.

I started with a bolt in adapter form Sparco and Scotty G. Had made me some additional adapters to fit those to my Cobra Seats but it put everything to high in the car, almost 2" and my co-driver and myself are fairly tall, so that wasn't going to fly. My last stage car I was always hitting/rubbing the ceiling....

I used the top side of the factory front support and welded some steel plates on to the top of the Sill side(s) to level it out. (BTW 03 WRX Sedan)

In the Rear I boxed out either side on top of the Sill to Tunnel support to get the seat as low as possible. It was a bit of work, some really weird shaped pieces to cut & Weld, but it turned out well and I have no bolts through my floor, which I was trying to avoid. My last car they would get destroyed and near impossible to remove.

After reading this I may go back and tube between the boxes, but I left the factory support in, so it seemed redundant.

The downside to this is there isn't really adjustment front to back and that would be the upside to doing the 'U' forward of that rear factory brace or tweaking my design could give you 1 or 2 slots to advance. (But it worked fine for me).

The pain was lining everything up. Seat in and out a 1/2 dozen times and trying to weld around it and the cage. I took one side bracket off the seat bolted it in up front where I wanted it, then cut (about 2"x3") steel plates for the rear drilled and bolted them to the rear slot and used the seat bracket to align and hold so I could tack it in place to the sill. Then I just cut the other side and front pieces (to create a box or tower) to fit and left the back open so I could access the nut. I put the seat back together w/ it's bracket and did the same thing for the 4th corner so everything would line up. Again, a pain to work around the seat and try and tack it but aside from the time shaping the pieces it was easy.

If I were to do it again I think I would make a wood or aluminum 'footprint' of the seat use in the fab/alignment. It could have saved me a ton of time.

I'll post some pics tomorrow, when I return to my shop...

thewizard

07-12-2010, 09:31 PM

We've been using 1.5OD DOM tubing welded to 1/8th sheet metal on sill side and 1/16th on the tunnel side. The idea of using 1/16th on the tunnel side is that if there was a side impact it would punch thru. We got the idea from another rallyist even though he does it differently; He uses 2 bars, one fits inside the other. They are welded only on one side so they act like sliders. In case of side impact the sill side bar slides and punches thru the tunnel.

Dan McGinn

07-13-2010, 03:42 AM

The pain was lining everything up. Seat in and out a 1/2 dozen times and trying to weld around it and the cage. I took one side bracket off the seat bolted it in up front where I wanted it, then cut (about 2"x3") steel plates for the rear drilled and bolted them to the rear slot and used the seat bracket to align and hold so I could tack it in place to the sill. Then I just cut the other side and front pieces (to create a box or tower) to fit and left the back open so I could access the nut. I put the seat back together w/ it's bracket and did the same thing for the 4th corner so everything would line up. Again, a pain to work around the seat and try and tack it but aside from the time shaping the pieces it was easy.

If I were to do it again I think I would make a wood or aluminum 'footprint' of the seat use in the fab/alignment. It could have saved me a ton of time.

I'll post some pics tomorrow, when I return to my shop...

I figured it would be a pain, no way around that. I, too, was trying to figure out how to make sure that the holes to bolt the seat brackets down stayed square and true. I like your 'footprint' idea. :thumbsup: I think I'm going to try that way. I'm using OMP brackets, I think I'm going to install them on the seat and then install two temporary cross pieces of steel bolted to the brackets, then deboltificate it from the seat mock it up in the car. It is to be hoped that this way, I can cut down on the in/out of the seat and get a nice result.

Looking forward to your pics Spiwrx.

spiwrx

07-13-2010, 12:38 PM

OK, here's a few pics. We got a little creative and offset the rearmost plates but couldn't remember why perhaps some clearance for the wiring, but we didn't really put that much though into it. On the Driver side they are inline.
http://www.dbrally.com/images/WRX/wrxseatmnt001.jpg

http://www.dbrally.com/images/WRX/wrxseatmnt002.jpg
http://www.dbrally.com/images/WRX/wrxseatmnt003.jpg

http://www.dbrally.com/images/WRX/wrxseatmnt004.jpg

http://www.dbrally.com/images/WRX/wrxseatmnt005.jpg

bfrancis827

08-05-2010, 05:29 AM

Does anybody have pictures of other setups? I really don't like the way my seats are mounted right now, they just don't seem safe. I am by no means a fabricator, but I would like to make something myself. I currently have those Sparco "vehicle specific" mounts. They just plain suck. I like what you did, Carl, but I don't think it will work for me. I don't know if my seat brackets are smaller, but if I mount to the stock front seat rail thing it will put my seat to close. It looks like the best option would be what JR did, but if Kyle says its a pain, I'm not really sure I would even be able to get 1/6 of it complete. I have been reading about mounting it to the cage, and it sounds like a smart. Does anyone have any pictures of this "U" shape mount? Does it mount to the sill bar? And what about the harnesses? I am not really of the best/safest way to mount the lap belts and the anti-submarine belt. Maybe with my limited fab skills it would be best to just pay a pro to do it??

Lot's of questions, I know.

Dan McGinn

08-05-2010, 07:54 AM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_96-oC7C68iU/TFrPCfkJnII/AAAAAAAAHAs/PZtSPFtG6YM/s512/0725001237.jpg

Its not finished in the pic, but you can get an idea. Basically two square stock 1/8" pieces between the tunnel and rocker. There are plates on the ends. The hardware is 10x 1.5. I drilled the bars, then welded the hardware. This way, I just mount the seat to the seat mounts (OMP) and then put it into the car on top of the bolts. I have found the side mount bolts on seats a bit tough to line up in the car, that is why the seat is mounted to the mounts before going into the car. There is enough room under the front of the seat to reach under to install the hardware. For the rear, I loosen the two seat mount to seat bolts and raise the back a tad, basically using the front seat mount to seat bolts like a hinge. With the seat tipped forward, I then install the rear hardware, then re-tighten the rear seat mount to seat bolts and I'm done.
As far as anti-submarine belt, I welded a 1/8" plate to the floor for that to mount too.

one last thing, I had the seat on the work bench, and bolted the mounts to it. I then rough-cut to length the square stock and drilled it, welded the nuts and mounted it to the seat. Then I welded the 1" flat stock you seen in the pic to ensure that the whole setup stayed square. I removed the 1" flat stock once it was all welded in.

bfrancis827

08-05-2010, 08:07 AM

Thanks!

That is kind of what I was thinking I needed to do.

Dan McGinn

08-05-2010, 08:11 AM

I would rate it as not too difficult, but a little time consuming. Probably a 3/10 on difficulty scale.

Dan McGinn

08-05-2010, 08:14 AM

btw, the BFH is handy to massage the forward inner mount where it contacts the transmission tunnel

bfrancis827

08-05-2010, 08:36 AM

btw, the BFH is handy to massage the forward inner mount where it contacts the transmission tunnel

Does BFH mean Big F'ing Hammer?

Dan McGinn

08-05-2010, 09:11 AM

You got it!

beatersubi

08-05-2010, 07:13 PM

Dan McGinn

08-06-2010, 05:47 AM

Don't you want the anti-submarine belt mount(s) on the seat frame in case it moves separate from the body?
From my readings I've learnt that the main function of the anti-submarine belt is to keep the lap belt from riding up and allowing the occupant to slide under. I've seen anti-submarine belts mounted to the lap belt mounts, after being run under the seat of course.

The anti submarine belt (ASB) does keep the lap belts low on the hips, instead of on the belly. The hips can take something like 8000lbs of force while the belly on 500lbs or something like that. As far as mounting the ASB on the seat frame, maybe Hoche can weigh in on that.

spiwrx

08-07-2010, 08:30 AM

Maybe I'm missing something here, please chime in if I am, but wouldn't you want the Sub-belt mounts to the floor/body vs. the seat frame? I can only imagine a possible seat frame or mount failure and a floating belt mount. I think I would want all of them to the cage or body, unless you are using an adjustable seat mount, I guess?

spiwrx

08-07-2010, 08:39 AM

Dan McGinn

08-07-2010, 09:01 AM

Thanks for the leg work on that, that was my suspicion.

mavric

08-07-2010, 07:37 PM

But from RA

31
L. Mounts
Manufacturer's mounting instructions shall be kept with the vehicle
logbook for review at scrutineering.
The occupant restraint system shall be mounted in any of the following
methods:
1. Following manufacturer’s instructions and utilizing same
manufacturer-supplied hardware.
2. Using roll cage mounting points, observing proper angles as
specified by the restraint manufacturer.
3. Using the OEM mounting points, observing the proper angles as
specified by the restraint manufacturer.
More than one method may be used in the same installation.
Anchorage points regardless of which method of mounting is used shall
be capable of accepting a static load of 3500 lbs (pounds) for both lap
and shoulder belts. Anti-submarine belts shall attach to anchor points
capable of supporting 1650 lbs (pounds). If two straps attach to the
same point, that point shall withstand the sum of both anchor point load
requirements.

UP2MTNS

08-07-2010, 09:28 PM

From the FIA: [http://argent.fia.com/web/fia-public.nsf/86CFF466E978ED6DC125774C002CD5E3/$FILE/253%20%2810-11%29.pdf]

"6.2 Installation
It is prohibited for the seat belts to be anchored to the seats or
their supports."

Further on they have a recommended diagram for crotch strap to be mounted to the floor.

don't quote FIA rules for rallying in the US. NASA and RA pull from FIA rules for certain things, but just because something is illegal (or legal) in FIA doesn't mean its legal (or illegal) in NASA/RA.

My sub-belt is mounted to my front seat support/cross bar and that passes NASA tech just fine.

hoche

08-07-2010, 10:34 PM

Lemme see if I can clear this up:

For the purposes of this discussion, some vocabulary:

Seat Mounting Bracket: The long L-shaped piece with screwholes that you bolt the seat into, and then bolt into the car. This also includes the slider, if you have one.

Seat Mount Bar: any welded in member of the car that the Seat Mounting Bracket bolts to. This is generally one of a pair of tubes (round or square) that are welded transversely from the sill (or sillbar) to the center hump.

Now,

You can attach your subbelts to the Seat Mount Bar, but NOT to the Seat Mounting Bracket. You can also attach them directly to the floor pan, using a sufficiently large washer and/or backing plate. The minimum sizes of those are indicated in the FIA rules (for RA) and in the NRS GRRs for NASA.

That help?

spiwrx

08-09-2010, 04:26 PM

JacksonRally

08-09-2010, 05:18 PM

Maybe I was overthinking it the first go round. It took me 16hrs to do the ones in my brothers car, and I don't think anyone would like to be billed for 16hrs worth of seat mounts at $50 per hr. I have come up with some other ways to achieve the same goal and will be doing some seat mounts in a car I built last year. Pics to come in a few weeks when I get going on it.

UP2MTNS

08-09-2010, 06:18 PM

Thanks for the clarification HOCHE.

I was told by an RA scrutineer to default to FIA if there wasn't a definitive answer in the RA rule book, if this was bad info I would love to know.

Figure if it's good enough for the big dogs, than it should be fine for me...

well, if you were told that by a scrutineer for this particular issue, then by all means, go by the FIA rules. I was just saying that, in general, FIA doesn't always equal NASA/RA.

409industries

08-14-2010, 09:31 PM

If you've kept the shell's original seat mounting supports, you can plate them and use these for ASB mounts.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/project_rs/2009-12-11-anchor_eyebolts/anchor_eyebolts_007.jpg

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/project_rs/2009-12-11-anchor_eyebolts/anchor_eyebolts_016.jpg

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/project_rs/2009-12-11-anchor_eyebolts/anchor_eyebolts_018.jpg

Now this won't work if you have your co-driver seat really far back because IIRC the ASB's have to come up through the seat between 0 and 10 Degrees angle maximum. This I believe was not in the rule books, but was advised by the Sparco 6 point harness instructions.

For anyone looking to see the complete seat install in this car (including seat base gusseting, etc) you can see it here: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?p=157803#post157803