DIY ABS Toggle Switch

[409industries]

Ahh yes. crappy Subaru ABS. Decent on the freeway, but annoying in any other circumstances, particularly in the dirt. This is my solution to the problem.

Enter the ABS switch. (installed on an 04 STi, setup may differ for other impreza models)

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/imagehosting/DIY_abs_switch/abs_switch_2.jpg

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/imagehosting/DIY_abs_switch/abs_switch_1.jpg

This little rascal was kind of annoying to build because its very hard to splice wires into a dummy mini fuse. Basically the components are:

1) A rocker switch of your choice.
2) Inline fuse holder of the same amp as the one you are replacing (I think it was 10amps).
3) Mini fuse that you can hack apart and splice into.
4) Another piece of wire for the negative side of the switch.

Solder the wires to the rocker switch. The positive side will be the fuse holder wire, and the negative will be another piece of regular wire. This is where it gets tricky, I had to get all MacGyver on this part so if you have a better way im all ears, but this is how I did it.

Take a spare mini fuse and melt the plastic away from the metal parts. Solder the positive fuse holder wire to one side, and the negative wire to the other. If you have to break apart the fuse completely like I did its ok. Wrap the solder job with some electrical tape. This pseudo-mini fuse needs to go into the secondary ABS spot near your fuse panel. It is identified on the inside of the fuse panel door. It is not on the main cabin fuse block but is the smaller set right below the steering column. (see picture). The idea is that its routing the circuit through the switch, rather than just using a fuse by itself. The circuit is still protected by the inline fuse.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/imagehosting/DIY_abs_switch/abs_switch_3.jpg

Pop out one of those useless dead covers in your dash, demel out enough space to fit the switch through.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/imagehosting/DIY_abs_switch/abs_switch_4.jpg

The completed product! Here you can see that the ABS switch is in the “disable” mode as my ABS light and “brake” light are illuminated on the dashboard.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/hosting/imagehosting/DIY_abs_switch/abs_switch_5.jpg

Now you can toggle your ABS on and off in real-time. Despite what you may hear, you do not need to turn your car off and back on for this to work. I’ve tested it, and even during a 5 second full lock skid, no fuses blew or anything.

Enjoy!

[Azewaldo]

Where'd you get the OEM-looking switch, is that a Subaru part?

[sebhockey]

I've been tempted to do this for awhile, but I want to find a cleaner way to make the fuse box connection. I'm too anal to just destroy a fuse and solder to it to make this. What can I say it's the curse of being an electronics engineer, electronics technician and 2M technician. I'm thinking a trip to a couple auto stores and rat shack are in order to see if I can find something that might make it cleaner.

[god910]

I have these. Downside is the price, but if you're OCDness (such as mine) prevents you from doing anything less, these will work, and if you do a price breakdown, it's only $10 for the part you need. (Sure you have to spend $30 on the kit, but it's a 3 piece kit. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA)

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/ct6100.jpg

I'm currently searching for them separately. I just figured I'd throw up a pic so you knew about what you're looking for. They are listed simply as Fuse Block Connectors. :mrgreen:

[god910]

HA! I found them, the problem is www.radioshack.com doesn't list the mini's anymore, but I DO have the part number, and a pic of the regular blade ones so you can see them. I'm gonna try to remember to hit "the shack" tomorrow and see if they can order it. *crossing fingers*

The part number is: 270-1218

And here's the pic of the blade type:

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265097w345.jpg

It just sits in place of the fuse blades, then you solder/connector onto it.

[CLR4ILS]

Hey do you ever have trouble with the car killing itself when you are jamming on the brakes during rallyxing or messing around in the mud?

[Bampalo]

I've been to a dozen different auto part stores and radioshack's, and for the life of me I cannot find an inline fuse holder for the the minifuse size! argh!

[god910]

It doesn't have to be a mini fuse, just use an AGU fuse (Barrel type) you can get those anywhere. They are usually simple in design. (spring pressure holds the fuse between 2 contacts.)

[RallyImp05]

i have been putting off doing this for a while now... i was going to use a relay as well as the switch tho..

[L and E Fab.com]

Hey do you ever have trouble with the car killing itself when you are jamming on the brakes during rallyxing or messing around in the mud?

You locked all 4 tires up and the car stalls. Just like coming to a stop at a light with the clutch pedal out.

If you are really good you just blip your clutch pedal and get on the gas to get the engine running again. I have done this during a rally a bunch of times when I was learning to left foot break.

[409industries]

Hey do you ever have trouble with the car killing itself when you are jamming on the brakes during rallyxing or messing around in the mud?

Ive never stalled the car with the ABS switch on (ABS off). This may be due to the fact that when im rallycrossing im leftfoot braking and usually mashing the gas while modulating the brake pedal.

Those little fake mini fuse adaptors are sick! the blade type posted above is interesting too. Don't worry about it being a mini inline fuse holder, if you have to get a different size / style of one, just make sure the amps are the same on the fuse.

oh, and the switch isnt OEM, just a generic radioshack toggle switch, dremel'd to perfection into the dead pannel piece.

[dppaladino]

some one post up a DIY of how to do this on a GC!

[Galen]

Sweet! Something to do tomorrow! ^^ Ill let you know how it goes!

[rollo]

Just as a matter of interest, is there any advantage to this over just pulling the fuse? I'm all about custom switchgear (man you should see the holes in my dash :D ) and I'd considered this too, but disabling ABS seems like something you'd need to do so infrequently that it doesn't really warrant a switch. Although I think on the Evo you have to switch off the engine when you reconnect the circuit anyway, or else the ABS doesn't switch back on.

[Galen]

being lazy and having fun making a new cool switch. its just easier. : )

[rollo]

As I suspected. Well I can totally respect that :D

[Galen]

So far, for the GC i have figured out that there is no secondary ABS fuse, so you have to tap into the main one. soooo, when you flip the swich you will lose cruise control... but i fuigure that i wont be using cruise control at a rallyX!! everything else is exactly the same, except that the fuses are 15AMP.

[dppaladino]

sweet! my cruise control is broken anyways.

[Galen]

haha! SUCCESS! just did the "clean" install, and it works great! Even went and locked the tires up a few times to make sure nothing bad would happen. Its a sweet mod, now all i need is a label for the switch that says "RALLY MODE" above it! lol.

Thanks for the great write up!

[dppaladino]

great job! I would love to see pictures of the wiring!

[Galen]

The only diffrance is that you just tap into the main fuse box. gimme like 10mins and ill upload a few pics.

[Galen]

here ya go, kinda ghetto, but i dont think itll catch on fire and you cant see it so who cares! lol, gets the job done. dont mind the one black wire coming out of fuse 9, its for my alarm.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f377/ghuntsman/IMG_6339.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f377/ghuntsman/IMG_6341.jpg

[409industries]

only one ABS fuse is nice and easy! Did you hack up the original one like i had to do, or just jam the wires in there?

I am looking for an easier way to get those wires to stay in there, and cutting up the original fuse was time consuming and a pain! Im definitely planning on doing this to the GC as well.

To answer your question rollo, yes it is easy just to pull the fuse, but everyone loves toggle switches. I know with the STi when ABS is off and turned back on, the car does not need to be restarted.

[Galen]

ya, i pulled apart the fuse and connected the wire to the fuse prongs. I like the idea of using those dummie fuses, but i was too lazy and cheap to get them.

[Blix666]

hmm....may have to perform this mod. i've run out of good spots for switches though. had to drill a hole right in my dash for the last one!

[409industries]

Eventually i want to have all my toggle switches in the rally car on a custom panel where the stereo used to be. Another great suggestion i was told, is to re-route your power windows to the center console so both the co-driver and the driver can operate both windows easily.

I hate hacking apart those minifuses. do these things fit in there ok? two of them?

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265097w345.jpg

[409industries]

bump

[munozppk]

re-route your power windows to the center console so both the co-driver and the driver can operate both windows easily.


I remembering reading the CRS rules last year, i think it said that you couldnt have power windows.

[chief2000]

Thread watch post, I may end up getting a new SX4 later this year so I will end up doing this mod to it. :headbang:

[aznpride75]

thinking about doing this also good write up

[Galen]

i love thismod, did it awhile back and it was worth the $15 or so for it!! super easy too :)

[twohlix]

A word of warning to everyone doing this: make sure you dont use really skinny wiring. Otherwise you wont need that fuse at all, because the wire will act as a fuse and that's not a good thing.

I would suggest 20 AWG at least (smaller means bigger). What wire guage did you use on this mod?

[tuffsti]

nice mod man i did the same with my 4 hella lights on my bumper i think they gave us dead switch thingys with nothing on em for that reason

[aznpride75]

hey guys i need your help...i got the switch in and all set up only thing is that when i turn the abs off my dccd goes to the rear setting and starts blinking....also to turn it back on i have to turn the car off turn the switch to abs on and then turn the car back on...anyidea how i can fix this? from what i read you guys were saying that you didnt have to turn off the car to turn it off/on

[409industries]

I would suggest 20 AWG at least (smaller means bigger). What wire guage did you use on this mod?

I believe i used 18 gauge stranded wire (i hate the solid copper crap)

About that DCCD thing, that is really weird. I've never heard of that happening. Doublecheck that the wires aren't coming into contact with anything else under the dash.

[westy2005]

hey guys i need your help...i got the switch in and all set up only thing is that when i turn the abs off my dccd goes to the rear setting and starts blinking....also to turn it back on i have to turn the car off turn the switch to abs on and then turn the car back on...anyidea how i can fix this? from what i read you guys were saying that you didnt have to turn off the car to turn it off/on

What year car??!! '06-'07 STi's have a different ABS/DCCD controller interface....(with the e-brake up 1 click, goes to full rear....dorifto FTW)

[aznpride75]

well it did it befor we put the dash back togeather its an 05 and it still turns the abs off...i just dont want to hurt anything any other ideas?

[Draco-REX]

What year car??!! '06-'07 STi's have a different ABS/DCCD controller interface....(with the e-brake up 1 click, goes to full rear....dorifto FTW)
Sorry, no. 04/05 are always 35/65, and 06/07 are always 41/59. You can't change that. All the DCCD does is change the *rate* of lockup. You could cut the wires to the center diff itself and it would stll be 35/65 or 41/59 depending on year. Maybe some other AWD systems in the past could do that, but no Subaru can go full rear or full open with the stock driveline.

[westy2005]

Hmmm, check again my man...according to the Subaru Engineer that I personally worked with what I said is true.....point proven on the lift. NOW the whole reason the engineer was there was due to faulty diffs in certain production number STi's.....Yes, we replaced 2 of them due to them going full rear. Not saying this is the case with all cars, BUT he told me that they can do it. As for the question posted, shouldnt hurt anything, but i dont think that I would want to run it that way.

[Draco-REX]

Hmmm, check again my man...according to the Subaru Engineer that I personally worked with what I said is true.....point proven on the lift. NOW the whole reason the engineer was there was due to faulty diffs in certain production number STi's.....Yes, we replaced 2 of them due to them going full rear. Not saying this is the case with all cars, BUT he told me that they can do it. As for the question posted, shouldnt hurt anything, but i dont think that I would want to run it that way.
I w this is going to sound bad but it's the truth; he didn't know what he was talking about.

Simple test: If popping the e-brake up one notch = 100% rear torque, then you would be able to do a dragracing-style brake stand. I'd say you should give it a try, but I don't want you to go out and break somthing.

It would also mean that Team Orange wouldn't need to do RWD conversions to their STIs; but they do.

Subaru's center diffs are a bit hard to understand. The biggest misconception is that there is a variable static torque split in any Subaru center diff. There isn't. What the Subaru center diffs do is begin to lock up when the front and rear axles begin to rotate at different speeds. The DCCD allows you to control how fast this lockup occurs. But once this difference goes away, the diff resumes its native torque split (35/65 for 04-05 STI, 41/59 for 06-07 STI, 50/50 for other 5-speeds).

[westy2005]

I w this is going to sound bad but it's the truth; he didn't know what he was talking about.

Simple test: If popping the e-brake up one notch = 100% rear torque, then you would be able to do a dragracing-style brake stand. I'd say you should give it a try, but I don't want you to go out and break somthing.

It would also mean that Team Orange wouldn't need to do RWD conversions to their STIs; but they do.

Subaru's center diffs are a bit hard to understand. The biggest misconception is that there is a variable static torque split in any Subaru center diff. There isn't. What the Subaru center diffs do is begin to lock up when the front and rear axles begin to rotate at different speeds. The DCCD allows you to control how fast this lockup occurs. But once this difference goes away, the diff resumes its native torque split (35/65 for 04-05 STI, 41/59 for 06-07 STI, 50/50 for other 5-speeds).

I understand the rear diffs, and the way they work...I took all the Subaru master tech classes except the 2008 new mod. update....Im not denying what your saying either...there were, however, certain 06-07 STi's that were able to do this, and it was due to "faulty" components...according to the engineer. I watched it happen, and once the trans was out of the car, they promptly put the whole thing on a pallet and made it vanish....twice! COMPLETE unit was replaced with a new one....

As for the 05 with it going to the "full rear" setting...possible change in voltage for the controller?!

[Draco-REX]

there were, however, certain 06-07 STi's that were able to do this, and it was due to "faulty" components
Well then it wasn't normal behaviour. With the placement and design of the center diff, it sounds like the diff itself wasn't transferring any power to the front under normal conditions. It only acted like an AWD car when the front and rear had different rates of rotation which started the lockup.

As for the 05 with it going to the "full rear" setting...possible change in voltage for the controller?!
I wouldn't be surprised if the newer DCCD controllers use the ABS to check wheelspin.

[westy2005]

I wouldn't be surprised if the newer DCCD controllers use the ABS to check wheelspin.


Im pretty sure that they do...I will have to look and see what I can find on this in a lil bit.

[wrxisthebest]

ok.. very easy way of doing this another way, is to just take the same concept, but take it to the ABS fuse spot in the cabin fuse panel, use an inline fuse and a switch.. the switch basically becomes ur needle nose pliers lol

very simple.. i plan on doing this very soon!

[wrxisthebest]

i think i am going to do this... just need to relocate something.. don't know what yet..

[snicker]

could I skip stuffing it in the fuse spot and wire it directly to the wiring for the abs?

[rollo]

Doesn't really matter as long as you're making/breaking the circuit. Just a question of how much you wanna hack up your wiring - plus most modern car wiring is all loomed up and a PITA to get at individual wires, whereas with the fuse panel it's all nice marked out for you.

[DammitBeavis]

hey guys i need your help...i got the switch in and all set up only thing is that when i turn the abs off my dccd goes to the rear setting and starts blinking....also to turn it back on i have to turn the car off turn the switch to abs on and then turn the car back on...anyidea how i can fix this? from what i read you guys were saying that you didnt have to turn off the car to turn it off/on

I'm not sure if it applies to USDM models, but you could try the method in this link from STI about DCCD in their GrpN car.
http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/tec_info/5.html

Apparently you lose Auto mode, but can still use manual settings?

[trastrim]

I did this mod yesterday on my 2005 STI with the help of brad and we ran into the same issue.

If you yank the 10amp fuse the DCCD goes into a tizzy and starts blinking on the rear most setting. I didn't feel comfortable driving like this so I shut the car off and popped the 10amp back in. Removing the 20amp main ABS fuse seemed to work - the catch is I can't get the ABS to come BACK on without shutting the car off and starting it back up again.

[aznpride75]

i cant remember what fuse i pulled i think it was a 20A but i have the same problem. it dont play with it all that much but it does work even with the dccd light flashing.

[rollo]

I'm not sure if it applies to USDM models, but you could try the method in this link from STI about DCCD in their GrpN car.
http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/tec_info/5.html

Apparently you lose Auto mode, but can still use manual settings?

That's some good info, nice find.

I did this mod yesterday on my 2005 STI with the help of brad and we ran into the same issue.

If you yank the 10amp fuse the DCCD goes into a tizzy and starts blinking on the rear most setting. I didn't feel comfortable driving like this so I shut the car off and popped the 10amp back in. Removing the 20amp main ABS fuse seemed to work - the catch is I can't get the ABS to come BACK on without shutting the car off and starting it back up again.

FWIW on many if not all cars, the ABS system pressurises (if req'd) and does a diagnostic check when the car is started (or more accurately when the ignition is turned to the accessory position). So it isn't surprising that it won't reactivate without shutting the car off and starting back up. My Evo is exactly the same way.

From the above link it sounds like there may be a risk that with the ABS disabled (electrically) that the centre diff will open when you hit the brakes, unless you also disconnect that DCCD connector terminal 4.

All wiring looms which related to "DCCD" have to be remain as original (remain as it used to be). But, To disconnect of DCCD connector(B380, color:Gray) terminal 4 (color:black / white) has became needed to operate center diff control manual mode properly.
If it has not been done, center diff will become free when brake signal been input and it may cause disturbance of vehicle movement. Please be cautious of that.

Please be cautious of that indeed.

Is the 20A fuse just for the ABS or the whole DCCD system?

[409industries]

Hmmm i have never seen the blinking DCCD indication before...

[Jester808]

Nice, I think I'll do this, I haven't run ABS in awhile, it would be awesome to have it on the highway again. If anything, just to have my brakes stop smoking when I come up to the tollway :lol: 80MPH - 0MPH = Lame :lol:

[trastrim]

More issues with this bloody switch.

Problem description:
Under hard braking in snow with the ABS switched off grinding noises occur from what sounds like the center diff?

Steps to reproduce:
In a 2005 STI;
Pull the 20AMP ABS Fuse from your cabin fuse box
Obtain 50+mph speed (haven't found the exact speed)
Rail the brakes
Expected result: Brakes will lock up the wheels and car skids out of control into a lamp post
Actual Result: Brakes begin to lock up, weird grinding noise occurs as if from the center differential and the shift nob shudders. Sounds almost like a rubber eraser on a table but with more of a grinding influence.

Note: this does not seem to happen at low speeds of 15mph +/-

Help?

[anaonbd]

I'm happy this thread is here because I nearly took my front bumper out because of that stupid ABS ****e. I might make a switch to put next to the fog switch, and if course I'd love an I/C spray switch connected to a sprayer :D :headbang:

[409industries]

trastrim, i just relooked over this thread. Did you ever get that noise figured out with your DCCD? This might be something specific to 05+ STi's because i have never experienced this in my 04.

[RA Limited]

some one post up a DIY of how to do this on a GC!

i'm pretty sure it's been on RS25 for years :)

[SUBYRIDA]

I have an 02' 2.5RS with an automatic transmission. Does anyone think I'll have any problems like the having to restart the car thing or the DCCD thing? btw what does DCCD stand for?

[rollo]

I'll resist the urge to go to lmgtfy.com :D

DCCD = driver controlled centre differential - it's the little wheel in STIs which changes front/rear torque bias.

Your car does not have it so no worries there. No idea how the auto will react though.. try pulling the ABS fuse (with the car off) and see what happens when you switch it back on. Do it somewhere far away from other people, lampposts and trees :D

[SUBYRIDA]

Oh Ok. Thanks. One more question (I feel like such a noob), when the ABS kicks in, does the grinding noise come from the tranny or something else?

[rollo]

Oh Ok. Thanks. One more question (I feel like such a noob), when the ABS kicks in, does the grinding noise come from the tranny or something else?

The grinding (or more accurately shuddering) noise is the brakes being applied and released 10+ times per second. There's a speed sensor on each wheel - if you apply the brakes and the sensor detects that the wheel is not moving (i.e. it's locked up) it will momentarily release and then re-apply the brake on that wheel.

The reason for all this is that when your brakes are locked, you cannot steer. The car just goes straight in the direction it was going when you applied the brakes. By releasing and re-applying the brakes in a staccato fashion, faster than any human could, ABS allows you to brake with almost as much force and actually steer to avoid obstacles.

95% of the time, this is what you want. On dirt, it may not be, since locking the brakes can be a valid driving technique for aggressive driving on a loose surface. Hence the switch.

[katnip]

coming in late to this. my 04 came with the abs totally disabled. its totally off 100% of the time, no ABS light, not toggle. the prev. owner did it, its an ABS delete from what I understand. I wanted to put a toggle in but he said there was only one way to do it without it screwing with the diff's. he works for VTCar, so I presume he know's what he is talking about

[rollo]

coming in late to this. my 04 came with the abs totally disabled. its totally off 100% of the time, no ABS light, not toggle. the prev. owner did it, its an ABS delete from what I understand. I wanted to put a toggle in but he said there was only one way to do it without it screwing with the diff's. he works for VTCar, so I presume he know's what he is talking about

Interesting. Maybe something similar to what the Japanese Subaru site was saying.

Is the plumbing for the ABS still in there?

[Gnome]

im pretty sure my car doesnt have ABS cuz if im even remotely over zelious on my brakes they lock up lol

[katnip]

Interesting. Maybe something similar to what the Japanese Subaru site was saying.

Is the plumbing for the ABS still in there?

plumbing is still there, he said that pulling the fuse only, or a toggle to it will "dissable" the diff. if I recall there is a "jump" you need to do to make it work properly and not screw with things. and I know mine doesn't work!

[rollo]

Yeah... that ties in with what the STI site (http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/tec_info/5.html) says.

So.. I guess to do it properly on an '05 STI, you:
- Pull the ABS fuse
- Disconnect terminal 4 (black/white wire) of the DCCD connector (B380)

Also you have to switch the DCCD to manual mode for it to work properly. Dunno what happens if you don't.

Anyway, it seems like it would still be something you could do with a toggle switch if you really wanted to.

[RS MN]

ugh i need to get started on this.

thanks for the write up aaron!

[bue car]

I am a noob, however, I shall try this on my 2000 rs and do a write up for us gc guys

[tzdevill]

i have everything wired and the ends i made to go into the fuse box wont stay stuck in the fuse box. Any idea for ends for the mini fuses. the lady at radio shack was absolutely no help. she actually said " i know nothing about electronics" and she was the only one in there!!!!

please help thanks

[Gnome]

or just be cool and buy a car w/o it ;)

[rollo]

Any idea for ends for the mini fuses. the lady at radio shack was absolutely no help. she actually said " i know nothing about electronics" and she was the only one in there!!!!

LOL. That's awesome.

I've cut down the larger fuse taps before, but it isn't ideal. The mini ones seem tricky to get any kind of connector for, unless you want the one suggested earlier in the thread.

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2306 (scroll down)

That is hella expensive for what it is though.

How about this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-30800-Mini-Fuse-Kits/dp/B000CQDRTI/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b

Use it over a blown fuse, make sure you tap the switched terminal (i.e. the one that gets power when the car turns on), run it with a new fuse to the switch and complete the circuit with the common ground. I seem to recall something weird with Subaru using switched grounds though, anyone want to chime in on that? Lights only maybe.

Could do something similar with one of these maybe:
http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHM200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B000FIWAP0/ref=pd_sim_auto_5

[Tarmac_GR_STI]

Anyone have any knowledge if this works on the GR's? As far as having a switch there to be able to toggle the ABS on/off.

I know that we have more to deal with, with the VDC and all. So, I'm wondering if this can still be done.

[iceberg113]

Toggle vs. Entire ABS Delete?

also, I understand that the wire needs to be thicker than 20 AWG, but does the switch matter at all? Ive done toggle installs in the past and had the switch get so hot at the wire connections that its melted the wire coverings. Is this due to not using thick enough wire? does the switch itself contribute to this heating up at all?

[MConte05]

Use thicker wire for sure.

[Cambo]

ive used switches for other things like fog lights on my street bike and had the same problem with the wires heating up at the switch and melting the connector... why would they supply wires that heats up the switch like that? or maybe im hooking it up wrong :cuckoo:

[Stein]

How did you run the cables through the firewall?

[Cambo]

I just ran the wires along the frame of the bike from the battery to the lights to the ground to the switch... just like the diagram says to

[Stein]

Just read the last page.
For all of you guys with hot switch issues, its due to the switch. The resistance in the switch is causing the heat, not the wire.

[rollo]

Just read the last page.
For all of you guys with hot switch issues, its due to the switch. The resistance in the switch is causing the heat, not the wire.

Correct - the switch terminals sometimes factor in as well. IMO this is a sign that you should be using a relay, or at the very least a higher rated switch.

As far as the firewall, you just have to find a grommet or a blanked hole. Search Google for gauge installs and stuff like that, usually someone's found a couple of good places to get through.

[mcb956]

This sounds like a great mod... probably my next one.

as for switches, for both sets of my hella's, i have just picked up a generic metal on/off toggle switch from autozone and have never had a problem.

getting the wiring through the firewall (on my 02 wrx at least): in the passenger foot well there is a rubber seal that i believe already has a couple wires running through it. i have used this hole for both sets of hella's (and the rewiring of my stock fogs so i can use them without the headlights on) and have had no issues. inside the cabin you can feed the wires straight over to the driver foot well and to wherever your switch is. under the hood on the front side of the firewall, that rubber sealed hole directly down from where the car alarm horn is and near the exhaust piping. hope that helps.

-mike

[Tarmac_GR_STI]

Anyone have any knowledge if this works on the GR's? As far as having a switch there to be able to toggle the ABS on/off.

I know that we have more to deal with, with the VDC and all. So, I'm wondering if this can still be done.


Anyone? help please... :mrgreen:

[rollo]

as for switches, for both sets of my hella's, i have just picked up a generic metal on/off toggle switch from autozone and have never had a problem.

Yep, you wouldn't have any issues cos the Hellas came with relays (unless you didn't use them, in which case you should cos you'll get more brightness)

Anyone? help please... :mrgreen:

You tell us..

1. Start car
2. Pull ABS fuse
3. Observe warning lights, test drive using LOTS of common sense
4. Replace ABS fuse
5. Observe warning lights, test drive (again using LOTS of common sense)

There are three potential scenarios:

a) The ABS (only) is disabled when you pull the fuse and re-enabled when you put it back (ideal)

b) The ABS (only) is disabled when you pull the fuse but does not re-enable when you put it back, at least until you turn the ignition off and restart the car (not ideal but workable)

c) One of (a) or (b) except with other systems also affected (traction control and/or diffs usually) or even worse, the car goes into limp mode and refuses to put any power down.

I seem to recall that the 2008 WRXs had issues with disabling the ABS, but I don't recall the specifics, or whether it would have any bearing on your car. Give it a shot and post the results.

[Tarmac_GR_STI]

Ah, thanks! I'll be sure to try that.

Unfortunately, I won't be home for a few months.... but when I do get home, I'll try that out the week I do! :D

[rollo]

Gah...

Well maybe someone else who has a GR STI can try it.

[Tarmac_GR_STI]

Yeah... deployments are great. Just glad this one is a MEU.

[eage8]

I have these. Downside is the price, but if you're OCDness (such as mine) prevents you from doing anything less, these will work, and if you do a price breakdown, it's only $10 for the part you need. (Sure you have to spend $30 on the kit, but it's a 3 piece kit. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA)

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/ct6100.jpg

I'm currently searching for them separately. I just figured I'd throw up a pic so you knew about what you're looking for. They are listed simply as Fuse Block Connectors. :mrgreen:

I ordered a set of these and the don't fit with cover thing over the fuse box because it's too long :(

(on a GC at least)

[LPPrelude]

Not to thread jack, but I did the same thing on my GC. I see that someone wanted a write up for the GC... although it is the same thing. I cut out the explanation of how to do it since you already covered that.

If this is to disable the ABS using an electronic switch I did a "write-up" for the GC8...




*I will not be held responsible for anyone doing this to their car. If you drive without ABS and lose control of your car, that is your own driver error. If you don't know what you are doing, then please do not mess with your brake system as it is the only thing that keeps you from killing yourself or others around you.*

What I used:
Switch
Wire
Fuse
Male and Female connecting ends (You can buy a pack of assorted electrical parts)
I recommend soldering, never use those wire nuts
Electrical Tape

I used two different colors of wire to satisfy my OCD.


Here is a picture of my switch installed in the dash:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/AladogRut/2010-09-26_22-03-35_311.jpg

Ideally you should have something that looks like this (my descriptions are bad I know):
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/AladogRut/2010-09-26_21-01-20_295.jpg




Here is a picture of the wires going into my fuse box:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/AladogRut/2010-09-26_22-02-28_691.jpg

Check to make sure your switch works. Depending on model, you may need to restart the car in order for it to realize that the ABS is working again.

Here are pictures, notice the position of the switch and the ABS light on or off.

ABS On/Working/Idiot Light Off
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/AladogRut/2010-09-26_22-03-35_311.jpg
ABS Off/Not working/Idiot Light On
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/AladogRut/2010-09-26_22-03-59_265.jpg

[tzdevill]

the problem i had was like the other guy. i have the smaller fuse and when you put something much taller than the fuse it hits the back of the change cover. I still got a few ideas but havnt had time to mess with them yet.

[LPPrelude]

Oh, I had to use a grinder/dremel to cut down the side of the "fuse" in order to get it to fit. I didn't use anything special like the picture above, just flat connectors on each wire that matched the ends of the fuse.

[02wrxRally]

I was able to take a spare mini fuse, a pair of needle nose, and a tiny flat head, and just pry out the individual prongs of the fuse. Then just soldered my wires to the bit that used to be housed in the plastic. No need to figure out what size connector would fit in the fuse socket or deal with that plastic crimp thing getting in the way. This was on an 02 though, not a GC, don't know if it makes a difference.

[riverfever]

I did this mod tonight. Here's a few pictures:

My idea was to use ground down spade connectors in place of the mini fuse. The first 2 I made are like the one on the left. The spade connectors are actually two thin pieces of metal sandwiched together. When I cut them like shown I actually lost one of the layers and they didn't stay in the fuse panel. The set I ended up using are like the one on the right. This way I retained both layers.
http://i54.tinypic.com/rmpgs8.jpg

My wire kit didn't look any different than the others I've seen used. 20 amp mini fuse inline.
http://i56.tinypic.com/dd2qt3.jpg

This is how it ended up looking. When I turn the key on, the red light is on and I get no idiot light on the dash. The odd thing is that as soon as I let the clutch out, the red light turns off, the ABS idiot light goes on and I have no ABS (which is fine) but I also had no say in the matter. Not sure what the deal is. Does this makes sense? So...when I have the switch all wired up, I get no ABS whether I like it or not. Now I can pull the connectors from the fuse panel and reinsert the minifuse and HAVE ABS. Right now I'm wondering if it's an issue with using ground down connectors in the fuse panel. I was going to get an extra mini fuse tomorrow and do what 409 did and keep the inline fuse as well. Any thoughts?
http://i56.tinypic.com/102ru34.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/29le7bm.jpg

[riverfever]

I also wanted to mention about the switch in case anyone asks. I intended on getting a simple 2 wire switch like 409 used but Radio Shack only had a 3 wire one. I just figured I'd only use the ground and the supply tabs for the switch. I'm not great with electrical stuff but I don't think the red light should be coming on at all. The other odd thing is that when I turn on the key and have a red light, I can jiggle the spade connectors that go in the fuse panel and get that red light to flicker a bit. I can deal with having to turn the ignition back off then on again to reset things but this is odd.

[riverfever]

Update...now something smells really badly. Oh wait that would be b/c my head was in my ass. I had the negative wire going to the wrong terminal on the switch. All is good now. Neat mod. Thanks 409.

[grayhamwiebe]

If I had ABS this would be a very useful thread.

[simpsonsdotcom]

I have a 2002 2.5RS seen here (at the bottom of the page are the ABS switch pictures):
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19503

I did this mod and it turns off fine, but I cannot turn it back on without restarting the car. Is there a fix for this?

Thanks

[Usher]

I was looking at the wiring diagram for my 2002 WRX yesterday and noticed that there is a signal from the brake lights to the ABS module. Has anyone tried putting the switch on this signal? It seems like that should allow you to turn the ABS on and off without having to cycle the power and without lighting up the warning lights on the dashboard.

Of course, since the ABS module is just a black box on the wiring diagram, I have no idea if this will cause other issues.

[jlcjr42]

Thanks Aaron for starting this thread. I want to do this on my 07 STi. Does anyone have any tips? What do I have to do to avoid having the problems that some of these people have had?

[tyler_S18]

I have these. Downside is the price, but if you're OCDness (such as mine) prevents you from doing anything less, these will work, and if you do a price breakdown, it's only $10 for the part you need. (Sure you have to spend $30 on the kit, but it's a 3 piece kit. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA)

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/ct6100.jpg

I'm currently searching for them separately. I just figured I'd throw up a pic so you knew about what you're looking for. They are listed simply as Fuse Block Connectors. :mrgreen:
i just ordered two sets of these off ebay for 22.00 with shipping! still gotta get the mini, regular, and maxi but they might make good test equipment!

[02wrxRally]

I was looking at the wiring diagram for my 2002 WRX yesterday and noticed that there is a signal from the brake lights to the ABS module. Has anyone tried putting the switch on this signal? It seems like that should allow you to turn the ABS on and off without having to cycle the power and without lighting up the warning lights on the dashboard.

Of course, since the ABS module is just a black box on the wiring diagram, I have no idea if this will cause other issues.

I have a question about this that came up after yesterday's rallyx. I had no issues in the morning, but in the afternoon runs, about 7th or 8th of the day, my brake pedal went hard for the first hard braking spot on the course and then was fine after that. It did that consistantly for a couple runs - hard pedal for the first braking, then fine for the rest of the run.

I have a toggle switch with an inline fuse plugged into the abs fuse spot under the dash. I've never needed to cycle the car on/off to turn the system on/off. At least I assumed it's off. The ABS light turns on/off when I flip the switch - engine running. I tested it in the snow when I first did it:

- turn car on, ABS on.
- test brakes; ABS pulses.
-leave car running, flip switch, ABS light turns on.
- test brakes; wheels lock up, no pulsing.
-leave car running, flip switch, ABS light turns off.
- test brakes; ABS pulses.

The guys at the rallyx told me it was the ABS freaking out that caused the hard pedal (which helped, actually, I needed to stay off the stoppy pedal - those were my fastest runs of the day:lol2:) but then were confused when I said the fuse was broken with the switch and the dash light was on.

What's going on here?


*also - the switch was in the ABS off position since starting the car up before the rallyx, and has been there/stayed there for many many on/off cycles. It's basically only off (system on) for emissions testing time.

[LPPrelude]

I am not sure what your question is...
Most cars do a system check at start up and won't do it again during the time the car is one unless prompted for some reason. I know when I did this switch in my car I would have to turn it off and back on for the car to realize all was "ok" and the light would at that point shut off.

Are you flipping the switch back on after each run? Just leave the ABS off the whole event.

[02wrxRally]

The ABS was off for the whole event. I can't remember the last time it was on.

My question is if the system is disabled, why am I getting an effect of ABS? That effect being the pedal goes hard and wont depress. I did 11 runs yesterday and this didn't start happening until the last few.

I was told that was something that happens because the ABS is freaking out, but if my ABS is off why would the system do anything to effect the brakes?

What I was trying to elaborate on to help shed some light as to what else might be going on is that I don't need to turn the car off and back on again for the ABS light to turn on/off. From what I've read, that's unique.

[LPPrelude]

If the system isn't getting power... it isn't doing anything.
Mabe just go back to pulling a fuse instead of the switch?

It is hard for me to determine what is going on when the only thing to go off of is "feel".

Maybe somebody else knows more specifically about what you are experiencing. Maybe it is a model specific issue or "feel".

Best of luck. Sorry I can't help.


Edit:
Something to think about. Your brake booster works off of vaccum and at different rpms that will make the pedal feel different. Think back on yor experience, could it be related to that and not actually the ABS?

The ABS in Subaru's gives a startling pulsing and shuddering feel when activated. So much that the pedal feels like it is having a seizure.

[Usher]

I have a question about this that came up after yesterday's rallyx. I had no issues in the morning, but in the afternoon runs, about 7th or 8th of the day, my brake pedal went hard for the first hard braking spot on the course and then was fine after that. It did that consistantly for a couple runs - hard pedal for the first braking, then fine for the rest of the run.

There are only two things I can think of that will make the pedal hard without causing other problems.

1) ABS kicking in - Not possible since you had the system disabled, and you would have noticed the pedal pulsing if it was the ABS system.

2) No vacuum for the brake booster - You said it only happened on the first corner, so you were probably full throttle in boost right until you hit the brakes. In this situation, there is no vacuum for the booster, so you lose the power assist. The brakes will still work, but you have to push a lot harder.
You'll also run into this if you left-foot brake in a turbo car. I definitely noticed it the few times I've tried to left-foot brake in my WRX.

[02wrxRally]

2) No vacuum for the brake booster - You said it only happened on the first corner, so you were probably full throttle in boost right until you hit the brakes. In this situation, there is no vacuum for the booster, so you lose the power assist. The brakes will still work, but you have to push a lot harder.
You'll also run into this if you left-foot brake in a turbo car. I definitely noticed it the few times I've tried to left-foot brake in my WRX.

Ahah! Yes, I was on it pretty hard into that section, looking at the in-car now I see I was at full boost at that corner, and left foot braking (first time trying that in competition)

Is there a fix for that or is it just how this car's brakes work? And is it a situation where everything has to happen in a specific exact sequence for it to occur? I'm pretty sure I've been full throttle and then on the brakes hard before and not had this happen.

[LPPrelude]

Yeah^ This is where my mind was headed when I mentioned vacuum.

There isn't anything you can do to combat this issue and keep the booster.
The booster only works on vacuum and there is not fix for that.

Ask around more on these forums and you will find people that actually remove the booster from their rally car to help give the pedal a constant feel. Yes, it is harder to press but it is the idea of having a brake that ALWAYS is the same no matter what speed.

All of the cars at Dirtfish have really hard pedals for this reason. (Although, I don't think they remove it I just think they remove the vacuum lines and disable it.)

[02wrxRally]

Sorry, I missed your edit when I saw Usher's reply.

So I guess this discussion was a little misplaced, but thanks for both of your help diagnosing. I was following the ABS lead because Gizzmo and Draco-rex said, oh yeah that's an abs freakout thing when the pedal becomes a brick... which lead to a :shocked: face when I said there was no ABS.

I know what the ABS feels like, I was under the impression that maybe I had done something with the switch that disables the normal ABS pulsing, but with the system still physically in the car it would lock the pedal - like start to work but then jam because the switch was in there.

Thanks again, not only did I have fun in the dirt but I got an excuse to learn more cool mechanical stuff! :eek: